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Thread: ozgordys First Build - DJT1 to Meteora (style)

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    You could try just rubbing in fine aluminium/aluminum powder (not the aluminium oxide variant which is grey, not silver) and sealing that in with a shellac spray.
    thats a possibility. ill investigate. could use a finishing oil?

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    Again, I'm not speaking from experience here as to how it will work with the ceruse, but if you make your own shellac (from flakes) you would dissolve it in methylated spirits, and maybe metho would be gentler on the silver/wax. It certainly is far less hot than lacquer thinners.

    Mixing shellac for a sealer, you make what's called a "1 pound cut". This equates to a 1:1 ratio which is based in the old imperial language of 1 lb. of shellac flake to 1 gallon of *methylated spirits. (*denatured alcohol in the US terms)

    You can mix smaller batches but use the same ratio. I usually go 250g flake to 250ml metho. It's not an exact conversion but close enough, and 250 mils of shellac goes a long way. It lasts me a quite a while.

    If you have the ability to spray it, it may be better than having to apply by hand. I was going suggest Zinsser Bulls Eye spray shellac (rattle can), but looking at the MSDS, it appears to have some acetone in it as part of the thinners. Acetone and wax would definitely not be a good combo.

    I'm probably not being much help to you here really
    ha.. it all helps trust me.. all good food for thought. I might try a finishing oil. but ill read the contents label first.

  3. #23
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    If you use a finishing oil, then you are almost back to the first scenario.

    Reading the instructions on one supplier's web site for mixing the powder with epoxy, you need at least 55% powder to get a good silver finish. You can always try mixing it with a finishing oil, but use the minimum amount of oil necessary to get a useable mix and always try it out on some scrap wood first.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    If you use a finishing oil, then you are almost back to the first scenario.

    Reading the instructions on one supplier's web site for mixing the powder with epoxy, you need at least 55% powder to get a good silver finish. You can always try mixing it with a finishing oil, but use the minimum amount of oil necessary to get a useable mix and always try it out on some scrap wood first.
    cheers for the input. This is turning out to be hard than I thought. Ill have to try some options on some scrap I think.

  5. #25
    ok... managed to resolve. unfortunately the silver wax solution didn't work for me. looked lovely until I top coated. The solvents in the lacquer etc dissolved the silver.

    Solution - Silver acrylic paint, rubbed into black painted body.. Same process. rub on let it dry and rub off with very fine wool and a slightly damp cloth.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    after a day or two to dry.

    top coat of gloss to protect whilst I'm finishing off.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ill start on the neck shaping now whilst I'm waiting for my pick guard material and black Wilkinson bridge.

  6. #26
    Member Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Looks good. I'm glad you got the result you wanted.
    Build #1 - FVB4 - Build Diary
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  7. #27
    Mentor McCreed's Avatar
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    BINGO!!!

    Hah... why didn't I think of that!
    Good result, and the solution sounds so bleeding obvious now...

    I remember seeing silver acrylic paint being used this way (on another forum???) before. Look forward to seeing the rest of the process.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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