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Thread: Hello World! My first guitar project

  1. #11
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    That makes sense, thanks for that. I'll likely try on some scrap wood and see how it works out before taking it to the guitar if I decide to.
    Testing for compatibility on offcuts or scrap is always a good idea when using new products.

    I have some of the Feast Watson Wipe On Satin Poly from the BGS, that should probably be okay for the neck yeah?
    FW and Cabot's are used regularly around here. I use the Cabothane (stupid name) poly and have had good results with it.
    Since you already have the FW wipe-on you should be good, but for future reference, I always recommend buying a small tin (250ml) of "regular" oil based poly and thinning it with turps to use as a wipe-on. It's way cheaper than buying the stuff labelled specifically as wipe-on poly. What you pay for is basically pre-thinned poly.

    Between a 50/50 to 60/40 poly/turps mixture is a good starting point. You can adjust as desired from there. I use 60/40 with my mini gun. I've never used water based poly, but I know it's not recommended thinning beyond 10% as it's quite thin to start with.

    What do you guys think of Jarrah for a fretboard?
    If you're talking about just staining the fretboard, it might be difficult to get a clean line where the two meet on an all maple board and back. I've never tried it so can't say firsthand, but I would think bleed from the fretboard piece to the back carved piece might be hard to control.

    That said, if you can pull it off, it might look pretty cool.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  2. #12
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    If you're talking about using jarrah timber, I'm looking at making a single-piece jarrah neck, as well as a jarrah neck with a maple fretboard. It seems to be hard enough for the job.

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  3. #13
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    ..I always recommend buying a small tin (250ml) of "regular" oil based poly and thinning it with turps to use as a wipe-on. It's way cheaper than buying the stuff labelled specifically as wipe-on poly. What you pay for is basically pre-thinned poly...
    Ah, that would have saved me some money on refinishing the dining table. Don't know why it didn't occur to me to do that.

    Sounds like what I have will be perfect then, I'll definitely be using it!


    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    If you're talking about staining the fretboard
    Ah, no, I've mentally jumped ahead to future build ideas. Thinking of using Jarrah wood for a fretboard. I'm sure it's fine and loads of people do it, I've just never actually seen it done.

    That said, that's some great advice for if/when I work with another maple fretboard, thanks!

  4. #14
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dozymuppet View Post
    If you're talking about using jarrah timber, I'm looking at making a single-piece jarrah neck, as well as a jarrah neck with a maple fretboard. It seems to be hard enough for the job.
    Thanks! Single piece jarrah neck would be interesting, and I imagine fairly hefty.

  5. #15
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross.pearson View Post
    Thanks dozymuppet! I see you're a Perthian also, so we're in the same boat in regards to sourcing wood. I got the Vic Ash from Austim, I think it was $90 for 1100 x 200 select grade. They have plenty of black walnut too but I wanted to keep the wood choice more local. Let me know if you have any good cheap timber hookups. I've checked out some of the local timber suppliers and there are some interesting slabs around, some rock maple, blackwood, etc. I just don't have $500+ even though it would give me enough for 5-6 bodies.
    The Fine Timber Co have a nice section to browse, but they also have a huge shed out the back with a lot of treasure. So aside from all the Jarrah, Marri, Backbutt, Sheoak, etc. they also have a good selection of American Ash, White Oak, Walnut, Hard Maple, and Tiger Maple, for example.

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  6. #16
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dozymuppet View Post
    The Fine Timber Co have a nice section to browse, but they also have a huge shed out the back with a lot of treasure. So aside from all the Jarrah, Marri, Backbutt, Sheoak, etc. they also have a good selection of American Ash, White Oak, Walnut, Hard Maple, and Tiger Maple, for example.
    I think I've researched just about every timber supplier in the state, and those guys really stuck out. Unfortunately a 230km round trip for me, but would probably be worth it once I'm onto my next full scratch build. Would love to get my hands on some Blackwood or Tiger Maple.

    In other news my Pitbull neck plate arrived in the mail today, so I might have a crack at getting it all bolted together this weekend. Strongly considering sanding the whole thing back and starting over with a proper finish in mind. I'm not in any rush.

  7. #17
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Strongly considering sanding the whole thing back and starting over with a proper finish in mind.
    If you decide to do that, I would recommend giving it a good scrub with a brush (maybe brass bristle?) and naptha (shellite) after sanding.
    Being a very open-pored timber, you want be sure you get all the wax out of the grain as it may not play nice with whatever new finish you choose.

    Of course if you're going to do a solid colour, you could do coats of shellac first like mentioned before to be safe.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #18
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    If you decide to do that, I would recommend giving it a good scrub with a brush (maybe brass bristle?) and naptha (shellite) after sanding.
    Being a very open-pored timber, you want be sure you get all the wax out of the grain as it may not play nice with whatever new finish you choose.

    Of course if you're going to do a solid colour, you could do coats of shellac first like mentioned before to be safe.
    I've decided I'll try and take everything back to bare wood and have another crack at it. Nylon brush and mineral spirits to dissolve and remove as much wax as I can. I'll still go for the same effect, but with a black wash. I might even try for a burst effect.

    In the meantime I had a lazy afternoon turning a cheap craftright engineers rule into a poor man's notched straight edge. Seems to work fine. I filed by hand because I didn't want to risk warping the ruler by putting too much heat into it with a grinder.

    Chainsaw blade sharpening file ate through the steel in seconds.

    Labrador foot warmer/chewer optional.

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    Also cut a 450mm section off a cheap craftright spirit level and flat sanded it using a plate of float glass. Should do for a poor man's fret leveling beam, but the fret rocker and setup will tell the tale. I've got some garbage cash converters guitars to test on.

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    The good news is it has an inbuilt handle!
    Last edited by ross.pearson; 25-07-2021 at 05:39 PM.

  9. #19
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Nice MacGyvering.

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  10. #20
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    I love home-made tools, and nothing wrong with them in my book. Good on ya!

    The footwarmer is pretty good too!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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