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Thread: Churchie's GS-2Z

  1. #1
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    Aug 2017
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    Churchie's GS-2Z

    Hey all.

    After moving into a new house - now with a shed - I decided to build another guitar.

    I like the look of the GS-2Z, so that is what I have settled on. I have upgraded to some Grover tuners.

    Trying to decided on PUPs. I have a set of ToneRider Rocksongs that I was going to use to upgrade another build, but may use on this guitar. However they are Nickel ones rather than Zebras like the kit. So will depend on the aesthetics and what looks best to me.

    I am going to stain it with Dingotone Coolangatta Gold and then TruOil over the top. Next decision is whether or not to stain the whole guitar or just the veneers and go natural with the back/sides and neck. Leaning towards a natural neck and stained headstock veneer and stain the whole body.

    I will grainfill the back/sides/neck with Ebony Timbermate.

    Looking forward to it
    Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
    Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle

    Pedalboard Build

  2. #2
    Member
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    Aug 2017
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    What is the thought about sanding the veneers before staining - I’m using DingoTone.

    Obviously I’m conscious of not sanding through the veneer, but want it in the best shape prior to staining.

    Maybe a light go with some 400?
    Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
    Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle

    Pedalboard Build

  3. #3
    Member Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    May 2020
    Location
    Perth
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    81
    Hi Churchie,
    just to let you know that the Coolangatta gold will be quite dark on the mahogany body.
    The FVB-4 I did with stain, 1 coat of intensifier and then tru-oil will show this.

    regards
    Build #1 - FVB4 - Build Diary
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Current - Build Diary
    Build #3 - FBM-1 - Current - Build Diary

  4. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Oct 2016
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    Reading, UK
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    Unless it’s rough, there really is no point in sanding the veneer. Maybe a ‘drag sand’ with P220 or P240, literally holding a piece of sandpaper loosely and dragging it over the top to remove any loose fibres. But it will normally be smooth enough not to need sanding. Otherwise anything above 180 tends to start ‘polishing’ the wood and the pressure of your hand on the sandpaper can close up the wood surface in areas, making stain take-up patchy.

    But do check for glue spots before staining, and then check again after any removal. They can’t be seen unless you use turps or metho to wet the surface, where any glue marks will prevent the wood from absorbing the liquid and show up as light patches. They stop the wood absorbing stain and need to be removed with Goof Off or acetone.

  5. #5
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    The is Trevor and Simon.

    I have found and removed some glue spots after wiping down the body and then using goof-off .

    I will check out your build Trevor
    Build 1: Non-PBG Flamed Maple LP - Wine Red
    Build 2: JRM-1DC - The Butterscotch Belle

    Pedalboard Build

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