That looks like a cheap metal fitting pretending to be brass. Different color inside than outside. Hell of a place for pot metal. I am so glad no one was hurt! When the new part comes any chance you can replace the fitting with something better? I would not want to take a chance on that happening again.
Thanks for the info Simon. I might give it a go one day but it's a bit pricey for one can.. https://luthiersupplies.com.au/mohaw...lulose-lacquer
It's not cheap by any means. Cheaper here in the UK, about £13 for the same size can, so currently AUD$23, almost half the price, but still expensive compared to car acrylic sprays, which are roughly half the price of nitro.Originally Posted by Rodc
And you'd probably need three cans for a Tele or Strat sized body - two for the body and most of one for the neck. And probably four cans for a bigger bodied guitar like an ES-1. It is quite a soft finish though, so whilst it's easy to polish, it's also easy to mark again.
It's certainly an alloy, not solid brass. You can tell from the weight alone. I get a complete check-valve assembly from them. The technical manager told me over the phone to fit the complete new part, in case the housing had distorted when the end came off and a new end cap may then not fit tightly enough and encourage something similar to happen.
You've just convinced me to stick with stain and True Oil thanks Simon. I'd stuff the first attempt so it will cost me 4 cans again plus the colour..
Courier dropped off the new check valve assembly, its been fitted and the compressor is now back up and running. Thanks to Spray Guns Direct and Sealey Compressors for their quick responses.
Haven't done the tone pot change yet as that arrives tomorrow, but reading Mazzajon's JRM-1DC build diary, I realised that I still had the original kit bridge, and that has taller saddles than the replacement one I fitted to the GSJ-1. Its saddles are really about 1mm too low for the strings to sit firmly on/in them. So I thought, why not try fitting the saddles from the old bridge in the new bridge? So I tried it and it worked.
Old bridge saddles fitted in the new bridge on the left, original low new bridge saddles on the right, about 3mm difference:
Here's a side view of the new bridge. Take 3mm off that saddle height and you can see that the strings coming round the rear of the bridge really didn't press down on the old saddles with much force at all. These are a lot better.
I'd be happier if the bridge wasn't sitting at a slight angle from string tension, and in theory there's no reason why the bridge posts couldn't have had those two supporting ridges closer together, or the bridge itself been that bit thicker at the ends so it was squarer. But you get just the same thing on more expensive bridges, and the standard wrap-over bridges from Gibson and the like. But there really is no reason for it, IMO.
But it's all back together again, with the bridge body now sitting lower than before, which I always think is a good thing. About 1mm of lowering possible on both sides; though the action is as low as it will go, so no need for it to go lower.
Just swapped out the log tone pot for a linear one and ....
Works just the same to my ears. Still not a lot happening until its turned down to 3. Did a resistance check to make sure I hadn't been sent a log pot by mistake, but was getting the right reading in the mid position.
Will try jumpering another 0.022uF capacitor across the current one to see if that makes a difference. The PIO one fitted measures 0.020uF, a touch on the light side maybe, so maybe some extra capacitance will get it cutting in sooner.
Simon, I've luck with these Kaish brand locking posts. Keeps the bridge nice and flat and they aren't expensive like the tonepro version I'm sure you are aware of.Haven't done the tone pot change yet as that arrives tomorrow, but reading Mazzajon's JRM-1DC build diary, I realised that I still had the original kit bridge, and that has taller saddles than the replacement one I fitted to the GSJ-1. Its saddles are really about 1mm too low for the strings to sit firmly on/in them. So I thought, why not try fitting the saddles from the old bridge in the new bridge? So I tried it and it worked.
Old bridge saddles fitted in the new bridge on the left, original low new bridge saddles on the right, about 3mm difference:
Here's a side view of the new bridge. Take 3mm off that saddle height and you can see that the strings coming round the rear of the bridge really didn't press down on the old saddles with much force at all. These are a lot better.
I'd be happier if the bridge wasn't sitting at a slight angle from string tension, and in theory there's no reason why the bridge posts couldn't have had those two supporting ridges closer together, or the bridge itself been that bit thicker at the ends so it was squarer. But you get just the same thing on more expensive bridges, and the standard wrap-over bridges from Gibson and the like. But there really is no reason for it, IMO.
But it's all back together again, with the bridge body now sitting lower than before, which I always think is a good thing. About 1mm of lowering possible on both sides; though the action is as low as it will go, so no need for it to go lower.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKmZZ4r
Can be found on eBay too, search for Kaish locking studs.
Before you use them though, swap the cheap soft Allen key screws out with some quality threads . The replacement ones I used were just from the hardware store and were Phillips head. No big deal not being Allen key, but they don't strip out like the original ones supplied. And you can get away with using a longer thread before you think you might need to cut them down. It's actually handy to use a Phillips rather than an Allen key.
Good thinking on the swapping of the saddles, I did the same thing with the musiclily bridge on my PRS-1H. Some of mine rattled a bit and gave the impression of slight buzz or sitar. It was because there was some side to side movement as some of the new saddles sat slightly above the channels they should rest on. Easy fix was a little Loctite on the thread behind the saddle after intonation was set.
Last edited by Bakersdozen; 25-09-2020 at 06:33 PM.
Thanks for that. Would be too slow for those to arrive before I give it to my mate on Wednesday, so I've gone for some Tone Pros so I can pass it over happy.
Also got a 250k pot coming for the tone control, as really nothing is happening before 50% on the 500k linear pot. I tried jumpering but it only really made the sound between 1 and 0 muddier, it didn't cut in sooner (which is basically what I was expecting but it didn't take any time to try it out). I'll stick with 500k tone pots on the GSM, as I really don't use them, but on a single pickup guitar, it needs to be used and be controllable.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
