Depending on how well it was sealed & stored, you may want to get fresh stuff.Doh!! Had a tub of shellac flakes sitting on the shelf for donkeys years.
If moisture has got to it, there may be problems with it dissolving properly.
Depending on how well it was sealed & stored, you may want to get fresh stuff.Doh!! Had a tub of shellac flakes sitting on the shelf for donkeys years.
If moisture has got to it, there may be problems with it dissolving properly.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
It's been sitting in a sealed container in the house.Originally Posted by McCreed
If it doesn't work out I'll use it to glue saxophone pads in...what it was originally intended for.
cheers, Mark.
The saga continues.
Due to curiosity in 7.25 radius necks...and the pricey option for off-the-shelf...
I have decided to roll up the sleeves and have a go at it myself.
To dip the toe in first, I attempted this on a used neck ready for the skip.
That went O.K. so here goes a proper attempt at the ST1-HT neck.
Tools required: 7.25 radius sanding block (attached a spirit level on top for decoration).
Various grades of sandpaper.
Pincers to remove frets. (had to grind down flush to grip the frets)
Perspex sheet to mount the neck.
Steel bracket of questionable straightness.
Bolts to mount it to the desk.
Fret removal...went quite well.
Onto the main act.
continued
cheers, Mark.
Thinking: If I mark the centre line along the fretboard and sand until the line disappears...
Moving along
Next comes the frets...
cheers, Mark.
Here we go....
May as well get them roughly level as I go.
I have not managed to photograph the re-staining process but fairly straightforward.
cheers, Mark.
Looking good.
It is easier to re-stain before putting the new frets in, but it's not a big difference. Slightly smaller pincers make removing the upper frets easier, and putting a metal fret protector around the fret you are about to remove helps prevent possible damage to the board. Heating the fret up with a soldering iron first also helps in case glue's been used to stick a fret in and reduces the likelihood of chipping if it has.
Hi Simon. Yes there's a relentless learning curve attached to everything.
My first attempt at fret removal involved a soldering iron.
For some reason I neglected that step on one fret and it seemed to come out with no damage to the wood.
I have not had any experience with playing a 7.25 radius fretboard so far.
Once I get a good test on this one, I may get the chance to hone my radius skills on my other victims.
cheers, Mark.
Soldering iron is there in case it had been glued in. It's quite normal practice to put glue on the ends. But if the frets haven't been glued in, it's not an issue. You may still get the odd glued fret if one didn't seat well, so it's been removed and a new one fitted with some glue, just in case. And even if glued, there's no guarantee that it will always cause some damage. More likely on rosewood than maple.
Still on the learning curve with this.
The frets are not seating across the radius.
I didn't have 7.25 radius frets.
So I have got a brass 7.25 radius guide and am manually re-inserting each fret and re-glueing.
Only 7 more to go
cheers, Mark.
Last edited by king casey; 13-01-2020 at 12:32 PM.
Fortunately the actual cost of getting frets is quite cheap.
All the expense is down to good ol' labour.
So after 3 attempts at re-fretting, I finally have it all up and running.
Question....Is 7.25" any better than 12.00"?
First impression is that there's not much noticeable difference.
I thought it was going to be like chalk and cheese, yet once again it's another line-ball.
Not regretting giving it a try though.
Still have some fiddling to do with the setup and haven't accomplished a decent finish as yet.
So the jury is still out for now.
cheers, Mark.
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