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Thread: Loonhaunt Junior LP JRM 1DC Place Holder

  1. #21
    Member Loonhaunt's Avatar
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    Yeah! What is to stop me from oiling over the Decal on the headstock? Tung oil should bond to the polyurethane or acrylic black face and not eat the decal? Did I mention I tried black transfast dye and I could not get the mahogany to look Black, it just became darker mahogany.

    So you use acrylic to spray like "Krylon" or similar. I am afraid I am stuck with whatever I can find in a big box home store place in my neighborhood.

  2. #22
    Member Loonhaunt's Avatar
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    Today Photos after 8th coat of oil and 2nd wool session

    It is begining to look deep enough1
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    Mahogany requires a lot of oil to fill the grain
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  3. #23
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loonhaunt View Post
    Yeah! What is to stop me from oiling over the Decal on the headstock? Tung oil should bond to the polyurethane or acrylic black face and not eat the decal? Did I mention I tried black transfast dye and I could not get the mahogany to look Black, it just became darker mahogany.

    So you use acrylic to spray like "Krylon" or similar. I am afraid I am stuck with whatever I can find in a big box home store place in my neighborhood.
    I just use the Acrylic sprays at my local auto shop in australia.

    But might I sway your opinion, if you are going to use oil on the headstock, why not finish the whole guitar in it. I use Tru oil for all my stained guitars. I like it, but its a personal preference as it takes a bit longer and you need patience. It does give the guitar a bit more of a woody feel rather than the plastic feel of poly - but that's just down to personal preference.

    The upside, is its a bit more robust if you knock the guitar finish later. you can just get some more oil and spot finish.

    IF you have time, get some scrap pieces of wood and dye them with you dyes and try out each of the finishes to see what works for you.

    Edit: Ahh right I see you have oiled, man that's looking awesome!

    Further Edit: yeah I oil over my decals all the time. never hurt one yet
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  4. #24
    Member Loonhaunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    I just use the Acrylic sprays at my local auto shop in australia.

    But might I sway your opinion, if you are going to use oil on the headstock, why not finish the whole guitar in it. I use Tru oil for all my stained guitars. I like it, but its a personal preference as it takes a bit longer and you need patience. It does give the guitar a bit more of a woody feel rather than the plastic feel of poly - but that's just down to personal preference.

    The upside, is its a bit more robust if you knock the guitar finish later. you can just get some more oil and spot finish.

    IF you have time, get some scrap pieces of wood and dye them with you dyes and try out each of the finishes to see what works for you.

    Edit: Ahh right I see you have oiled, man that's looking awesome!

    Further Edit: yeah I oil over my decals all the time. never hurt one yet
    Oils are my favorite. You do really need to have other things to do between coats. One reason I began using Formby or Minwax tung oil over say Watco is that Formby can be handled in 12 hours as opposed to sometimes twice that for Watco.

    Really Glad to hear about the Oil over decals, I suspected such as I used to make Bamboo fishing gear and I made my own decals covering them with Man O War Varnish Never Touched them, I sprayed some lacquer over one once and it completely dissolved. I cried for a while on that mess. That was a commissioned job too!

  5. #25
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Laser printed decals are normally pretty colorfast. It's inkjet decals where the inks tend to run if you put the wrong thing over the top. I've sprayed clear nitro over laser printed decals with no issues.

  6. #26
    Member Loonhaunt's Avatar
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    Bob, the maker of these said, no nitro in his directions. When I was building bikes all decals where acetone set, and would hold up under anything, except acetone! I don''t actually know what these are? I sprayed my first layer of black on the headstock a few minutes ago. I am getting close to finding out how I am made?

  7. #27
    Member Loonhaunt's Avatar
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    Headstock Pre Decal

    I am going to take a shot at putting the decal on the headstock. Is covered with four coats of Krylon Acrylic wet sanded tween coats with 1200 grit. I wish I had a dust free room . I made a dry booth for doing my bamboo fishing gear, but this would require a lot more space?

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  8. #28
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    I dont have a dust free area, I jut use a tack cloth when needed
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed and upgraded
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed | Co-Winner-May 2016 GOTM | Runner up GOTY 2016
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed | Runner up Feb 2017 GOTM
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed | Co-Winner - July 2017 GOTM
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
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  9. #29
    Member Loonhaunt's Avatar
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    I wont tell if you don't. These Decals are works of art on there own

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    I dont have a dust free area, I jut use a tack cloth when needed
    Five coats of Lowes home store Satin Spray Can Krylon (Color-Max) Black under decal. 1200g wet dry paper, wiped down last coat of paint with warm water prior to setting decal. I have clear Krylon Color-Max to cover the decal. I will need to let this cure for about 24 hours before I attempt the first mist coat over the decal.
    Last edited by Brendan; 15-01-2019 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Photo removed due to logo

  10. #30
    Overlord of Music FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loonhaunt View Post
    Five coats of Lowes home store Satin Spray Can Krylon (Color-Max) Black under decal. 1200g wet dry paper, wiped down last coat of paint with warm water prior to setting decal. I have clear Krylon Color-Max to cover the decal. I will need to let this cure for about 24 hours before I attempt the first mist coat over the decal.

    Attachment 29718




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