Hi Alkay
you measurement from the nut to the centre of the guitar at 314mm is fine. Im assuming you have measured from the nut to the 'middle' high point of the fret (usually i'd get 313mm but lets go with 314mm. If this is the measurement, then you are looking at around 317mm to high 'e' and 319mm to low 'e'. So everything looks to be in order.....
Gavmeister
Hi Alkay, sorry I missed your question earlier, assume you worked out to wind the bridge saddles closest to the nut. The orientation of the bridge is a personal preference, some like the saddle adjusting screws facing the pickup and some the bottom of the guitar, for me it's easier to get screwdriver access from the rear.
Those intonation measurements sound fine.
As for the string height over the bridge pickup, looks like you have plenty of movement in the bridge height so screw the bridge down to the lowest setting and the strings should be much closer to the pickup and should be sitting on the 22nd fret.
All these questions are good and it's better to sort out any issues early in the build before you start the finish.
Think you can go ahead and start sanding before the paint goes on !
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
So should I drill the bolt on neck holes in the neck heel with the measurements above?
Cheers,
Alkay.
Hi Alkay, yes go ahead and drill the neck holes. I'd have both E strings fitted so you can align the offset equally to each side of the string to edge of fingerboard.
I had another look at the pic of the body and it's spalted maple, why the hell would you want to paint it solid colour ?
the lighter timber in the middle will be a feature. I'd be tempted to leave the colour natural and clear it as is !
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Thanks wokkaboy,
Ok, I'll drill the holes now.
I was thinking a solid colour because I think those two different types of wood look ugly on the body. My other LP kit is spalted all over the body and looks good. If you think keep the grain, then I will.
So you think keep it clear and not even apply a dingotone stain? I quite like the idea of a dark redish brown so the grain is still visible. What do you think? I've seen some great finishes in the photo gallery forum here.
Cheers,
Alkay.
Apologies to Gavin1993 and Wokkaboy.
I only just saw your follow up replies following my picture of the bridge pickup height.
I know I sound like a pain but it is very important I think at this stage to get everything right so I understand for my future builds
I'm going to adjust the bridge height much lower, retune, check measurements and then if all is good I will drill. I may need a shim in the neck pocket yet, but I'll check after adjusting the bridge.
I could barely hear the bridge pickup on my last LP build and it was around this height. This is the intonation guide I have been using that dingobass recommended:
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2303
Cheers,
Alkay.
@wokkaboy, I have lowered the bridge height to a better position and the high e and low e strings are just touching the 22nd fret.
I can't tune as the strings are touching the fretboard.
I gently lifted the neck up and it looks like it will have good action so I'm going to make a "shim" out of A4 printer paper as suggested in Gavin1993 intonation guide. It looks like I need 1-2mm on the front edge of the neck pocket.
Unless there is a better way to do this in the mock build stage?
Ok so I used thin cardboard from a beer carton instead of paper. Two layers at the front half of the neck pocket and could tune the strings.
On the low E the first fret is pressed down and then the 17th fret. I couldn't fit a business card or credit card under the 9th fret.
I have back bow on the neck so I gave a quarter turn to the left on the truss rod. No difference. I'm not going to go further incase I create a disaster.
Now that the bridge height is lowered to where I would like it do I need to do a shim or am I being too picky?
I'm not sure, it's still a big learning curve for me.
Cheers,
Alkay.
Hi Alkay, I quickly read through your posts, the colour and paint is entirely up to you. Sure I think a red or brown stain on that cap would look great. If you don't like the look of that you can always sand it off and paint solid.
At this stage don't worry about a shim. You should have enough adjustment in the bridge height and truss rod to set up the string action and playability.
These kits the neck is supposed to be on about a 2 degree rake angle toward the back of the guitar so don't play with shims at this stage. This is to compensate for the higher tune o matic bridges
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in