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Thread: Jon's 335-style build

  1. #11
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Looks stunning. I agree that there is so much contrast and texture with the burl that a stain isn't needed.
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  2. #12
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Agreed. I always feel that burl veneer just needs clear or a very light amber tint at most, as you want to see the wood grain, not hide it. If you want to stain, don't get burl.

    Looking good with lots of interesting detail.

  3. #13
    Member jonwhitear's Avatar
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    Here it is after about 10 coats of TO, with a light sand after every fourth. The veneer really is a rough job - it even has chunks missing in places. Fortunately it's not anywhere near as noticeable as it would be on a less figured top.

    I did four coats of TO on the neck, sanded back, and then put one more on. I think I'm going to leave it at that, as it feels really smooth and fast.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. Liked by: Cliff Rogers

  5. #14
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    That is stunning!

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  6. #15
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonwhitear View Post
    The veneer really is a rough job - it even has chunks missing in places.
    Perhaps almost inevitable with burl unless its a really high priced job. Seems to me that a lot of veneers would get thrown away if they insisted on every one being perfect. I admire anyone who can work with it, its way beyond my skill set.

    Still, that does look nice.

    One thing I did with my tru oil instrument, where I was filling over an inlaid headstock veneer, was to build it up with repeated layers of tru oil sealer filler, literally dripped on thick and left to cure, until I was eventually able to sand it flush. Some layers were so thick they wrinkled up when curing, but now its sanded and polished I can't tell. Might be worth trying if you haven't filled your drop outs another way.
    Last edited by JimC; 07-06-2020 at 06:25 PM.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

  7. #16
    Member jonwhitear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimC View Post
    Perhaps almost inevitable with burl unless its a really high priced job. Seems to me that a lot of veneers would get thrown away if they insisted on every one being perfect.
    Yes, I need to remind myself that this is a kit guitar that cost hundreds of dollars, rather than a production guitar that cost thousands!

    Quote Originally Posted by JimC View Post
    One thing I did with my tru oil instrument, where I was filling over an inlaid headstock veneer, was to build it up with repeated layers of tru oil sealer filler, literally dripped on thick and left to cure, until I was eventually able to sand it flush. Some layers were so thick they wrinkled up when curing, but now its sanded and polished I can't tell. Might be worth trying if you haven't filled your drop outs another way.
    Thanks for the tip. Can you use the sealer filler over the top of TO?

  8. #17
    Member jonwhitear's Avatar
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    I think I'm about done with the finish on the back. It's not the flattest finish, but it's shiny and I'm happy with it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by jonwhitear; 13-06-2020 at 01:46 PM.

  9. #18

  10. #19
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    ...but it's shiny and I'm happy with it.
    Shiny is good! Very nice.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  11. #20
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    Looks good. It's giving me some surface of Io vibes:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Scott.

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