First Build - AG-1

[grantxx]

Well pretty much done, still sorting action etc, I think nut is still to high, looking for tips to set height correctly, searched heaps on here and internet, plenty of variety of how to set it up, any real life tips from the brains trust on here will be appreciated. Especially anyone who has set up one of these, this one seems a little hard to get right at both ends.

Overall pretty happy with it, it is not going to be a guitar of month contender but learnt heaps for the next one. Still playing with set up not quite happy yet, which is why truss rod cover is still off. My soldering while it was rough worked as everything operates as it should, there wont be pictures of that area.

After I had to redo the neck - used epoxy 2nd time around, is permanent now, but doing the rework it is just not as neat as first time at the join of neck to body, and having to handle it a bit more has caused a few marks on the finish. I realised way to late I should have done something with the headstock, just didnt cross my mind when I started on it. The locking tuners are great and worth the extra $$ in my opinion.

Next one is on the way ordered one of these DSCM-1E, now searching around for inspiration of how to finish this one.

Thanks so much to those on this forum who provided guidance, particulalry Simon your knowledge is appreciated.

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Grantxx,
your AG-1 looks very nice.

Good luck with the DSCM-1E. Another set neck, similar soldering for the electronics etc - should be a breeze. FWIW, I think natural mahogany looks very nice.

For the AG-1 and the high nut. The process you use will depend on the tools you have. Do you have any nut slot files and feeler gauges?
If no nut slot files you can knock the nut off (using a wooden block with a gentle tap from a hammer along the line of the fret board - this can damage the finish around the base of the nut (!) so best to try and score the join between the nut and the headstock). Then very carefully sand the bottom of the nut so as to lower the action (take care to keep the base of the nut flat). You need to keep checking the height to ensure it does not get too low. Then re-glue the nut to the neck.

I usually sand the base of the nut, and then use nut slotting files with a method suggested by McCreed. Hopefully others will chime in with their method.

[grantxx]

Hi Grantxx,
your AG-1 looks very nice.

Good luck with the DSCM-1E. Another set neck, similar soldering for the electronics etc - should be a breeze. FWIW, I think natural mahogany looks very nice.

For the AG-1 and the high nut. The process you use will depend on the tools you have. Do you have any nut slot files and feeler gauges?
If no nut slot files you can knock the nut off (using a wooden block with a gentle tap from a hammer along the line of the fret board - this can damage the finish around the base of the nut (!) so best to try and score the join between the nut and the headstock). Then very carefully sand the bottom of the nut so as to lower the action (take care to keep the base of the nut flat). You need to keep checking the height to ensure it does not get too low. Then re-glue the nut to the neck.

I usually sand the base of the nut, and then use nut slotting files with a method suggested by McCreed. Hopefully others will chime in with their method.

Thanks Trevor, yeah have purchased the PB nut files, they are OK but not the best quality or preciosion but I think they will do the job, I have the bone nut and is set in place with PVA so still can remove it if needed, I shall try and find mcreeds tips, cheers

[grantxx]

Found this link = How to Adjust the Nut Height on a Guitar , seems like a sensible approach as it rules out potential neck bow and bridge errors, will give it a bash. WOrst that can happen I get a new nut

[Trevor Davies]

Found this link = How to Adjust the Nut Height on a Guitar , seems like a sensible approach as it rules out potential neck bow and bridge errors, will give it a bash. WOrst that can happen I get a new nut

Yep, this seems like the typical process. As the video mentions others use different useable heights.

I cannot find the heights reference on this forum. I had copied this into a word document that I keep my building notes on:
McCreed’s 1st string Action:
"The measurements I aim for are: .008" on the E/A; .006" D/G and .004" B/E. Some people set a different height for each string to create a more true radius (eg: .008; .007; 006 so on...) but my stepped method works for me."

Hopefully this is not a misquote!

[grantxx]

Yep, this seems like the typical process. As the video mentions others use different useable heights.

I cannot find the heights reference on this forum. I had copied this into a word document that I keep my building notes on:
McCreed’s 1st string Action:
"The measurements I aim for are: .008" on the E/A; .006" D/G and .004" B/E. Some people set a different height for each string to create a more true radius (eg: .008; .007; 006 so on...) but my stepped method works for me."

Hopefully this is not a misquote!

Based on that info and the video, mine is way high still. I shall remove - sand the bottom until close and then fine adjust with the files

Thanks again

[Trevor Davies]

Sounds good.
Lately, when I do my neck preparation (fret levelling, filing, polishing etc), before any finish is applied, I also check the Nut to Fretboard action (this does not need strings to be fitted). If way too high I will remove the nut and sand the base, otherwise I will leave it and only do the 1st string action process when doing the final setup.

My "rough" Nut to Fretboard action is JUST above 1.6 mm for first (low E) string, and 1.4 mm for sixth string. I have some bass string offcuts that I use to do a simple check. (NOTE: This action is calculated from a fret height of 1.2mm + 2x (first fret action)).

[grantxx]

Thanks again Trevor, got the nut sorted, have 008" E A D and 006" ish for G B E, I seriously could not truly get a reading below that anyway, I am happy with that. Ended up with a bit of Buzz on Low E, A and a little on G - had the neck set pretty much flat, so gave the neck a bit more relief is pretty much sorted, but will let it all settle before I tweak it anymore. I can raise the bridge a smidge if needed.

Intonation is pretty close, will tweak that to get it right, got plenty of play either direction with the saddles.

I need some new strings first, after all the tighten and loosen to do the nut I am pretty sure they wont last long now.

Totally agree, as far as doing all this work before applying any finish, as I have put a few little marks and dings in it just be handling it etc, thinking I will set the neck as well before applying finish.

Cheers

[Simon Barden]

This is my general method.

I have a decent set of nut files, so I always cut from the top, not sand from the bottom.

Like Trevor, if the strings are sitting really high then I'll cut the nut slots down first so they aren't too far above the fretboard.

Then I'll juggle the truss rod and bridge height to get the lowest action I can before finally cutting the nut slots.

I'd always recommend getting the truss rod setting finalised first before doing the final nut slot height, even if you use the 3rd fret method. Probably because I like my actions really low so the open strings are only just missing the first fret. Any slight change in neck curvature can still affect the relative heights, even if only by a very small amount.

As long as the frets are level, you can get away with an almost flat neck. Not everyone likes this, and some people prefer to have a decent amount of air under the strings.

With an almost-flat neck, the upper frets are the ones that determine the lowest bridge height, so I start with those and check that the strings all sound clearly with no buzzing, and that I can bend the strings to my normal extent without them choking. If so, I try lowering the bridge and repeat the process. Once I start getting some buzzing or choking (normally the latter), I raise the bridge very slightly and then see what's happening on the lower frets.

Any choking or buzzing and you either have a high fret, or more likely you need a touch more fret relief. But if they all play cleanly, then for the lowest action, you can use the truss rod to try straightening the neck a small amount. Straightening the neck pulls the strings down towards the frets, so then go back to the upper frets and see if they are OK. If not, raise the bridge a touch until they are fine.

Then back down to the lower frets and see how those are. If fine, check how straight the neck is and if you think that the neck could still be straightened a bit, then give it a go.

This is an iterative process, so it may take a little while to get the balance right.

I'll then let the guitar sit strung up under full tension for several hours (ideally overnight) as the neck may move a bit over time. Then check that the guitar still plays well, and adjust again if necessary.

Only once this is all OK do I then start on the nut slots. I mask off the headstock face up to maybe 6cm from the nut, as it's very easy to mark the headstock with the file ends when filing down at an angle. Unlike some here, I just file the slots down a bit at a time, just looking at the 1st fret string height and using my eyes to gauge whether the slots can come down a bit lower. This can sometimes result in a slot that's too low, so I'll replace the nut (I work on quite a few guitars for friends so have a stock of spare bone nuts). If it's an older guitar, I may use the superglue/CA and baking soda trick to fill the slot and start again rather than replace the nut.

After this, I slacken off the strings, pull them to the sides, mask off either side of the nut and file the top of the nut down so it's about level with the top of the strings (some take it down a bit lower so 1/2 the string sits out of the slot), then reshape the rear of the nut with a file so it's rounded off again (slightly on a Fender-style, more so on a Gibson-style), and do the same with the outer ends and rear edge of the nut so that there are no sharp edges to stick in your fingers or be more likely to catch on clothing I then sand with increasingly fine grits and Micromesh until the nut is nice and shiny.

I then put the strings back on, retune and set up the intonation. There is no point doing the intonation until you've got the final action and nut height sorted, as the action determines how hard you need to press down on the strings to fret the notes, and with that, the tension increase in the strings as a result. As this tension increase is a large part of the reason you need to set the intonation up in the first place, it's important that you work using the final set-up. If you set it up with a high action and then adjust the action to a very low one, then the intonation will be too much and you'll need to repeat the process. So you might as well only do it once at the end.

Then just enjoy playing the guitar!

[grantxx]

Hi Simon, thanks again, your input as aways is much appreciated. Getting the balance right is a challenge for sure, but following a structured process is gold. I have learnt so much doing this first one, really looking forward to the next one and applying the learning. I am thinking I should invest in some better quality nut files, as I have a couple of guitars I can sort out with my new knowledge, plus I am certain I wont stop at 2 new builds.

I left mine overnight and seems to be pretty close after slight truss rod tweak, now I believe the nut height is correct, i am going to go over the whole process of set up one more time, I think I can still get it a bit closer to what I want, action still not quite right.

Thanks