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Thread: The Frankencaster

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    Dude, I’m just being silly. The silver sky plane sounds epic, it’s just a shame it wasn’t a plain basswood body is all


    Don’t worry, FW. You will see photos of it in all its glory..with the fancy schamncy engraved metal bits!

  2. #82
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    This morning, I sanded the body again, after the grain filler had around 18 hours drying. I went 240 grit with random orbital sander, then 400 grit by hand. Nice and smooth.

    Masked off the cavities and pocket and used some old lip balm to put into string through holes and screw holes. To keep I
    Unwanted sanding sealer out. I wiped the surface a couple of times with wax and grease remover, to get excess off and to get finger marks off too.

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    I then set up the spray booth.

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    First coat done. Will rub down with 240 grit and reapply sanding sealer. Give that a couple of hours to dry and will sand again to 400 grit.

    This evening should be first base coat/primer spray.

    After this, I might keep my spray booth as a cubby house, so I can hide from housework.

  3. #83
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    The 5 P’s

    Patience and preparation prevents piss poor performance.

    Wait....that’s 6!

    Well, 2 coats of sanding sealer this morning and rubbed it all back to 400 grit....not a solid sanding, just a scuff sand to give the primer something to grab onto. I waited 2 hours for the final coat to dry, although the instructions said, it can be sanded after 30 minutes.

    I have been shaking the can on and off several times today, so it should be fairly well shaken and mixed.

    I stood the can in a bath of warm water to keep it less viscous to spray.

    This is the first coat.

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    On the second coat, there was a bit of a run, so I tried to wipe it off and both coats came off. The instructions said it was ok to re coat after 15 minutes, but it is not hot today and kind of humid, so I might give the third coat 30 minutes. The second coat managed to fix the run issue but I need to be more careful with the spray job.
    Last edited by Eponymous; 05-03-2021 at 03:45 PM.

  4. #84
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    You got it fixed, so that's all that matters, but for future reference, trying to wipe off a run whilst it's wet will result in exactly what you experienced.
    The best way to fix it, is to let it dry, then scrape it level with a razor blade, followed by strip-sanding (strip-sanding is a technique, not sanding back until stripped). Happy to explain in further detail if you ever need it.

    Can't wait to see the chameleon paint!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  5. #85
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    Hi McCreed

    On the third coat, there was some spatter. Lesson learned there is to take the cap off and soak it in meth between sprays, I think. Nothing serious but I will just sand those spatters, lightly until they are level. Since they were third coat, shouldn’t leave a hole in the base coat.

    As I look at the body drying, it looks kind of cool with the matte black colour!

    Will leave it until Sunday to spray the color change paint. That will give it ample time to dry. The base coat had three coats in the can with some left over, so I’m thinking one can of the color change will give me at least 3 coats, which, from what I have seen on YouTube, should be plenty to get a good color shift happening.

    Thinking about that other body....when I fill the holes, I might try a broadcast yellow lacquer straight over the grain filler and sealing sander.

    This one...looks pretty old school!

    http://www.sydneyguitarsetups.com/ni...stralia-guitar

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    The best way to fix it, is to let it dry, then scrape it level with a razor blade, followed by strip-sanding (strip-sanding is a technique, not sanding back until stripped). Happy to explain in further detail if you ever need it.

    Can't wait to see the chameleon paint!
    Ah..razor blade on the splatters...gotcha

  7. #87
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Ah..razor blade on the splatters...gotcha
    Actually, no.
    I was referring to drips or runs that are more linear in formation with a defined high spot at the end (clear as mud, right??? I never tried to describe a run before!). For spatter, you have the right idea. Level with a sanding block on the flat areas.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. Liked by: Eponymous

  9. #88
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    The third and final primer coat

    This morning, I sanded back spatter marks and got it nice and smooth. It took some of the paint off the edges, back to bare wood. I guess, the primer isn’t supposed to be that durable, just the right colour and porous enough for the paint to stick to.

    I notice that there is still some very faint grain marks in the paint work. Maybe 3 coats of grain filler and 2 coats of sanding sealer wasn’t quite enough....maybe 4 grain filler and 3 sanding sealer...although, to be fair the sanding sealer did go on lightly.

    Still, I have now used all of the primer can. Got 4 coats out of it, so probably the one can of colour change paint will be enough.

    I’m torn between trying to get the paint on today...giving about 5 hours for the primer to dry or maybe put it off until next weekend and let all of the solvent in the primer properly evaporate. There isn’t any rush, so probably next week will be good.
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  10. #89
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    Should I do something about this?

    I have noticed that somewhere along the line, either I didn’t put enough grain filler in or sanding sealer over the grain filler.

    There are faint but discernible grain lines in the primer.

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    Not sure if it comes out in the photo.

    I think my options are:

    1. Leave it and hope the paint fills in evenly;

    2. Spray over the primer with more sanding sealer to make sure it is covered (with some scuffing with 400 grit or so to ensure the topcoat bonds; or

    3. Sanding back to bare wood again and doing more grain filler and sanding sealer, then reapplying primer.


    I’m tempted to try 2, since the sanding sealer is clear, it shouldn’t interfere with the primer and topcoat but maybe 3 is the better option.

    Perhaps 1 would work and if it doesn’t, I could think about doing option 3 if I really don’t like it.

    Probably I think, I will do option 1 and make a decision then.

    Anybody has advice or experience, I would love to hear.

  11. #90
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    Oh...and these guys turned up today...

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