Spalted Maple top LP1, finished with Wudtone.

[keloooe]

Quote from Gavin1393 on January 23, 2013, 11:20
Under $3 at Bunnings...

Sweet! Still sand the body a bit???

[Gavin1393]

Yes, you need to sand the body to get rid of any scratches and dings (although depending on the ding you could use water and an iron (but that's another story). Make sure you sand with the grain...if no more scratches you will produce a nice looking guitar otherwise the Wudtone will highlight all the scratches you don't want to see!

If you are going to use the steel brush try and scrape with the grain....the Wudtone Coats will eventually make the rough feel smooth as you layer the paint. Simply make it look nice and then start painting. Remember that "Less is more", a little Wudtone goes a long way, particularly after the first coat...you want your coats to be as thin as possible. Whilst they may appear streaky at first this will level as the paint cures. I'm starting to sound just like Phil.....

[pedro]

OK all done - colours, electrics all hardware....but one problem remains please guys - the measurement from the nut to the 12th is 31cm the measurement from the 12th to bridge is 32cm. Is it ok to remove some of the neck ??

[Gavin1393]

Quote from pedro on January 23, 2013, 13:56
OK all done - colours, electrics all hardware....but one problem remains please guys - the measurement from the nut to the 12th is 31cm the measurement from the 12th to bridge is 32cm. Is it ok to remove some of the neck ??

Pedro,

Part of that measurement is a tolerance called "compensation" this is usually only around 2mm or thereabouts. 10mm seems to be too much. Is the saddle in the right spot or can it be adjusted to the correct scale length?

I'd be surprised if the scale length was wrong on the guitar....we have had a similar question on the forum before and the guitar was actually fine. There was no need to cut into the neck.

[keloooe]

Quote from Gavin1393 on January 23, 2013, 12:59
Yes, you need to sand the body to get rid of any scratches and dings (although depending on the ding you could use water and an iron (but that's another story). Make sure you sand with the grain...if no more scratches you will produce a nice looking guitar otherwise the Wudtone will highlight all the scratches you don't want to see!

If you are going to use the steel brush try and scrape with the grain....the Wudtone Coats will eventually make the rough feel smooth as you layer the paint. Simply make it look nice and then start painting. Remember that "Less is more", a little Wudtone goes a long way, particularly after the first coat...you want your coats to be as thin as possible. Whilst they may appear streaky at first this will level as the paint cures. I'm starting to sound just like Phil.....

Alrighty then, advice taken!!!

[keloooe]

Quote from Gavin1393 on January 23, 2013, 14:12

Quote from pedro on January 23, 2013, 13:56
OK all done - colours, electrics all hardware....but one problem remains please guys - the measurement from the nut to the 12th is 31cm the measurement from the 12th to bridge is 32cm. Is it ok to remove some of the neck ??

Pedro,

Part of that measurement is a tolerance called "compensation" this is usually only around 2mm or thereabouts. 10mm seems to be too much. Is the saddle in the right spot or can it be adjusted to the correct scale length?

I'd be surprised if the scale length was wrong on the guitar....we have had a similar question on the forum before and the guitar was actually fine. There was no need to cut into the neck.

*cough* Phil *cough*

[Gavin1393]

Progress - two gloss coats later...

[pedro]

Thanks Gav, although the saddle cannot be in any other location (can it??) - the measurements are right..31/32..I will take your word for it and carry on assuming that everything is correct....cheers.

[adam]

Hey Pedro, what kit have you got, an LP-1S? If that's the kit, then you should be right to bolt on the neck. They go to a lot of trouble to make sure the necks and bodies match and sit at the right distance to the bridge post holes. I haven't come across one yet that has been "out". The saddles on the bridge can be moved individually; there's a screw that moves each saddle back and forth. Let us know if you still have issues. But, I reiterate what Gav said, please don't cut any length off the neck (I learned that the hard way, it was just my poor measuring).

[pedro]

It looks beautiful - I have just sent you a photo - not sure if I have the saddle right - but it sure looks good. I am very proud of this lovely piece of kit...haha