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Thread: Barnseys ES1TL

  1. #71
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for the comments, ive run a wire to the bridge post to use as an earth, being a semi hollow do i shield the pickup cavities or is there no point if the wiring is not shielded ? and if i do shield does the shielding need to be earthed
    Thanks

  2. #72
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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ID:	18167did some work in between making a beer today and set up the pots and switch on some cardbord. Im still undecided on the wiring weather to do the standard wiring or just use one vol and no tone controls, i really like how my 333 sounds. After reading through the forums finally found about the shielding so of to the naughty hardware today for some copper ta,pe wich ill do tonite or tomorrow

  3. #73
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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ID:	18168 first time up right

  4. #74
    Mentor nitroburner1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Barnes View Post
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ID:	18168 first time up right
    Just caught up with the thread, love the colour scheme, looks very classy, well done.
    Fender electric Fat Strat mim. (Bought)
    Maton Electric Acoustic EM325C
    Pitbull Guitars ST-1 ( finished) http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5970
    Pitbull Guitars SG-2 ( Finished) http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6124

    Pitbull Guitars JM-1 (Finished. 2018 June GOTM))http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7150
    Pitbull Guitars TL-1 (In production) [url]https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=8676

  5. #75
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroburner1000 View Post
    Just caught up with the thread, love the colour scheme, looks very classy, well done.
    Thanks nitro, your sg looks awsome

  6. #76
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It's really not worth shielding the pickup cavities when you've no way of shielding the controls. You've got humbuckers, so you really won't get much noise from them. If you were worried, then covered humbuckers would be better than tape shielding as the entire pickup is then shielded. Any noise that is picked up will come from the unshielded single wires in your wiring harness

    So make your harness wires as short as possible. It's all quite compact in a 335, so it shouldn't be too big an issue. But remember that you need to run wires around the D(iamond)-hole (as it's not an F-hole) so you don't see them. The longest wire runs are from the pickups, but those cables are shielded. Where you end up running signal and ground cables in parallel, you can wrap them together so the ground cable acts as a partial shield.

    And don't forget to connect up the bridge post grounding wire!

  7. #77
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Thanks simon, i saw your message 10 min to late Click image for larger version. 

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    I started some of the wiring Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #78
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    This humidity on the east coast at the monent is a nightmare for the finish coat, only got one more to do but dont want to risk getting the bubbles in the final coat like i did before

  9. #79
    Mentor nitroburner1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Barnes View Post
    Thanks nitro, your sg looks awsome
    Cheers mate, this site produces some classic axes
    Fender electric Fat Strat mim. (Bought)
    Maton Electric Acoustic EM325C
    Pitbull Guitars ST-1 ( finished) http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5970
    Pitbull Guitars SG-2 ( Finished) http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6124

    Pitbull Guitars JM-1 (Finished. 2018 June GOTM))http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7150
    Pitbull Guitars TL-1 (In production) [url]https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=8676

  10. #80
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    No problem at all if you've done it, just remember that the shielding will need grounding to work, so you'll need to solder a ground lead to it. And I'd mark on the position of your D-hole on the cardboard. It's not quite as big as an F-hole but you'll find that you probably need to run some cables from the bridge volume pot around the outside of the two tone pots to get to the selector switch. You could cut across a bit, but if you keep all the cables together, you can tape them up and make a stiffer harness that's actually a lot easier to fit. The D-hole doesn't give you the useful wide bit at the end of the F to get your finger in to push the pots around, so you'll need to pull most of the pots through with string or wire.

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