Teamjeffo's first build! FS-1

[teamjeffo]

Gibson use a set of stings to set up the guitar, then almost the last thing they do is hit the strings into the saddles with a hammer to notch them, then fit a new set of strings.

Otherwise (if you don't want to risk that), if you look at pre-notched bridges, you'll see that they don't have notches that are string-sized, they are simple V-shaped and all the same size/depth (well some do vary but it's rare). So all you need for the bridge is a low-cost triangular needle file.

You can of course use nut files to do it, but as you haven't got any, then I'd suggest the needle file route. Just make sure you mark the positions carefully first so that the strings are evenly spaced and the E strings are running parallel to the fretboard edges.

I suppose you're right. My tele's saddles "v" are all the same depth.

The gotoh saddles have a starting groove to ensure you start centre, so I do like you're idea of a needle file.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Simon Barden]

You don't need too deep a groove, just enough to stop the string slipping sideways.

[teamjeffo]

Hi all! So I believe I've come to my last coat using Wudtone's Top-Coat on the body, and I'm wondering how people have finished after applying? Should I just let it be, or do I need to invest in a buffer?

For most of the coats, I've been able to manage no dust settling on the body whilst it cures, but there has been one where I needed to knock it off with steel wool prior to a coat. I'm worried that with the last one I might need to clear it off, but run the risk of running out of top coat.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[teamjeffo]

Also.... Thoughts for finishing a rosewood fingerboard? I've been recommended Boiled Linseed Oil.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Sonic Mountain]

I imagine that would work, I think the done thing is Lemon Oil, but I'm not really sure how much of a difference it would make.

[Simon Barden]

Both work. They are not really 'finishes' but ways of keeping a fretboard from drying out and shrinking. They'll soak into the wood and make it look darker. I use lemon oil but linseed oil has the same effect. I wipe some on, wait for it to soak in, then wipe some more on and repeat the process until the board isn't taking up any more of the oil. Then give the board a good wipe down with a clean rag and you're good to go. A dry fretboard that hasn't been oiled for years a can take a up a fair bit of oil.

I'd repeat the process every 6 months to a year, where after the initial application you should only need one application to keep the board topped up. In hot dry environments, every 6 months is probably better than a year. It stops the wood from shrinking and exposing the fret ends. I don't know about linseed oil but lemon oil is also pretty good at getting dirt off fingerboards, so rubbing the board with a lemon-oiled cloth until the cloth stops picking up dirt can help keep it feeling smooth.

[teamjeffo]

Take 2:

Still not keen on spraying with a clear nitro, but I'm not sure I'm left with any other options. Certainly not keen on wiping it off again and forking out the stupid amount of money and waiting another month for postage.

If anyone has any tips on how to finish with Wudtone or Tru Oil, let me know soon!!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[teamjeffo]

You could probably just spray a couple of coats of lacquer over the decal first, before any soaking, This should then take tru-oil over the top once the decal is on and dried. R&F mention that they can do this for you before they send the decals out, so you ought to be able to do it yourself.

Bugger!!!! Forgot all about this! I'm such an idiot


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Andy40]

No need for lacquer mate, Tru oil goes over decals just fine.

[chrissyinbkk]

I have found out that the wudtones finish doesnt go over them, first coat did..2nd coat wiped it off completely