Robbo's TL-1TB

[dave.king1]

Bummer about the glue but all is not lost

Be careful sanding that cap, I'd be be tempted to do a solid colour in acrylic paint on back & sides and work it in on the top as a burst.

Spraygun or rattle can for the back & sides and airbrush on the top.

There are plenty of vids on YT showing how to do it, just have a practice on some scrap timber first to get the technique right

[Dedman]

A narrow burst might solve the fronts problem. It's a shame the back isn't all one grain type or the other as they both look good but not 1/2 and 1/2. I 'd solid paint the back and sides and burst the front.

[Rockfactor]

I'm not too worried about it as I wasn't 100% convinced on the colour before I started. I'm only $30 and a couple of hours in the hole. As you say I'll paint it in enamel as the dingo tone is oil/wax based so just need to spend some time and cabbage at my local repco or SCA. I don't have a red or white guitar so they're the front runners ATM.

I also have very limited time and energy as well as dealing with a crook back, so I'm looking for a pretty quick and easy finish.

I would like to try a copper at stainless finish but I'm not that brave.

Robbo

[dave.king1]

I've used acrylic for the burst over DT Cooloongatta Gold top on the Tuff Dog and had absolutely no problems, I'd saty away from enamel unless you feel committed to go that way.

Pic here http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...l=1#post145113

I'll be flatting it off tomorrow in preparation for the clear coats as noted in that post

[Rockfactor]

That's good to know, thanks Dave.

I've been watching your build. Looks fabulous, great job.

Robbo.

[wazkelly]

Hi Robbo, bummer about how that turned out.

Fairly typical result when using DT on Basswood and if you sanded past 120 there would have been very few open pores left for any stain to soak into. It can be salvaged if you are prepared to strip back with 80 and sand up again to a smooth finish with 120. Even so, I am yet to see a good example of Bondi Blue as it looks too washed out on most builds.

Tend to agree with Dedman about the mismatched grain on the back. Not such a big deal as it won't be the side most folks would be looking at but if it bugs you then a darker or solid colour would hide that.

Strange that the front did not suffer the same mismatched grain. Doesn't look like a veneer and only glue seepage would have been near the binding. Still reckon it is Basswood just doing its thing.

[Fretworn]

Blue or green stains are also less forgiving unfortunately. You could try an gentle wire brushing of the glue smear on the front then try restaining.

[Rockfactor]

Unfortunately not much work done on this, illness, minor house renos, three kids, demanding wife, demanding job etc etc but I did get some sanding done in preparation for a paint job over the failed stain attempt.



I am going to get a Graphtech Tusq nut, but was thinking a black one might be better on the dark fretboard? Anyone have a guitar with a black nut? Google images help a bit but it is tough to really get a feel based on a pic on the computer screen. Does it look weird with nice shiny frets and a black nut?

Cheers in advance...

Robbo

[Sonic Mountain]

I have black nuts on two of mine and I think it looks great.

[Andy40]

That is an awesome sanding face!

Damn, Robbo, I know that Bondi blue just doesn't seem to take as deeply as the other DT colours, I do not know why....

If you ever see my SGD-612, the body is Basswood and the necks are maple, I used Black stump, Karajini red, outback sunset and Coollangatta gold for the burst and I had no issues at all with the basswood grain taking the DT. I sanded to 240 grit then, ebony timbermate to seal it then sanding again to 240 grit before applying any DT. basswood and maple had no problem taking the stain at all

I am completely stumped here mate sorry