LP-1S "Poison Ivy"

[Joe Piler]

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk

[Joe Piler]

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk

[Joe Piler]

At the 12th



At the bridge



Seems fairly accurate.

How about that fretboard? Its fairly smooth, leave as is or should i put a protective coat on it? What?

Frets are a bit corroded here and there any fix for that?

Will be starting on it sunday afternoon sanding shaping HS and first coat of stain.

Greetz Joe

Greetz joe!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk

[Andy40]

Joe,

What a score! I can't believe you got that flame in the spalt as well! Its going to look crazy!!!!

Please please be careful not to sand through the veneer (its quite thin). I used nothing but 320 or 400 grit on the cap sanding carefully and lightly.

The spalt, by its nature, is a bit ripply. If you are finishing the guitar in Tru-oil, you can start with a grain filler (I used ebony timbermate), then sand that back. you can build up the tru-oil coats on the cap, then wet sand them back and add more layers to get a flat finish. Have a look at my LP-1SS build diary if you want. unfortunately, it took me a few months to finish the cap on mine, but the patience paid off.

The scale length looks like it will be within tolerance.

The fretboard finish is quite personal and up to you. For me, I prefer that my fretboards aren't lacquered or sealed by anything. just natural with a bit of Dingowax (as I'm in Australia).

the frets can be buffed by a bit of 0000 steel wool and metal polish (be careful not to damage the fret board in doing so)

Enjoy ...you earned it.

[Joe Piler]

Joe,

What a score! I can't believe you got that flame in the spalt as well! Its going to look crazy!!!!

Please please be careful not to sand through the veneer (its quite thin). I used nothing but 320 or 400 grit on the cap sanding carefully and lightly.

The spalt, by its nature, is a bit ripply. If you are finishing the guitar in Tru-oil, you can start with a grain filler (I used ebony timbermate), then sand that back. you can build up the tru-oil coats on the cap, then wet sand them back and add more layers to get a flat finish. Have a look at my LP-1SS build diary if you want. unfortunately, it took me a few months to finish the cap on mine, but the patience paid off.

The scale length looks like it will be within tolerance.

The fretboard finish is quite personal and up to you. For me, I prefer that my fretboards aren't lacquered or sealed by anything. just natural with a bit of Dingowax (as I'm in Australia).

the frets can be buffed by a bit of 0000 steel wool and metal polish (be careful not to damage the fret board in doing so)

Enjoy ...you earned it.

If by riply you mean the waves in the top, I kind of like those.

About the fretboard it seems pretty solid but also really dry and "scratchy" i imagije bending strings up and down that would feel kinda raw i would like to add some smoothnessbto it without darkening the color too much.

Do i have to protect the binding from the sandpaper?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk

[Andy40]

Hi Joe.

Yeah the ripples in the spalt. I had some channels that ran down the spalted maple (not the flame in the maple I had not flame that yours!) If you like an uneven cap, thats cool. Its all personal taste.

Good plan regarding the fretboard, maple is drier than rosewood. but I'd probably condition the fretboard at the end of the build.

I wouldn't worry too much about the binding when steel wooling the frets. You will need to prepare the binding by sanding it before staining (painting). Its mentioned in Gav's post in How to build your Pitbull Guitar. sanding and polishing the binding before staining helps prevent any leeching of the colour into the binding. and if there is leeching its quite easy to sand it out.

[Joe Piler]

I think i know what you mean the flame is rippled but there is a spot in the spalt where there seems to be a dent i'll take a picture when i have daylight.

So i went a'd checked out gavin's post if i understand correctly i need to polish the binding with only fine sandpaper and tjen steel wool and then rub off any spilled stain with steel wool between each coat. In the end do i rub tru oil over the binding?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk

[Andy40]

I think i know what you mean the flame is rippled but there is a spot in the spalt where there seems to be a dent i'll take a picture when i have daylight.

So i went a'd checked out gavin's post if i understand correctly i need to polish the binding with only fine sandpaper and tjen steel wool and then rub off any spilled stain with steel wool between each coat. In the end do i rub tru oil over the binding?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk

Yep you got it! the binding is pretty durable plastic, it can take a bit of sanding. Check it out though, I have found that there have been some divots in it when i start my builds which i have had to sand out.

Ripply:


See how the cap on mine is not very smooth. (sorry not the best photo). Its a combination of my not sanding it back too much and that the spalted maple is a bit uneven.

After applying many coats of Tru-oil and sanding back, reapplying and sanding over and over.

[Joe Piler]

So we made it to the workshop and after sanding i made the BIG mistake of think i could apply the stain directly to the body and then start rubbing, i hope that'll sand out

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk

[Joe Piler]

Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk