Just jumping the gun here Simon but when you get a chance have a look at the trust rod cover. They are a copy of a SG but they won't work on this style head stock. I might cut the end off and drill 2 holes either side of the cover. Got the stain on mine waiting for it to dry. You're progressing nicely mate.!
From an earlier post in this thread:
So already spotted, but thanks.Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I've mentioned the truss rod cover, the badly placed fretboard locating pins and the lack of pre-drilled bridge ground wire holes to Adam on these G-series kits, and he'll have a word with the factory as he says they are very responsive. So hopefully the next batch from them will have these small issues sorted.
Sorry, missed that. I might have to make one
Ah, just seen this.
How do I ground to the bridge post then as it looks a difficult one to drill?
Yes, you should be able to cut it down, but then you'll need 3 matching small screws. Fine if you've got some, but if you haven't then it may be better value to look for a 3-screw bell truss-rod cover on eBay or Amazon that come with the screws.
Frustrating day yesterday. Sprayed the two kits with vintage cherry lacquer just fine.
And it did help to mask some of the small imperfections as I'd hoped, but I couldn't get the clear lacquer to spray properly, it just came out too dry with with solid white flecks. First time I'd used this particular mini-gun, which I bought to keep exclusively for clear use, even though it is exactly the same as my other mini-gun, apart from the external colour, and it was set up exactly the same.
Tried loads of different combinations of air pressure and paint levels with no joy. So I can only assume it was too hot to spray (28°C +) with what I had as I didn't have any retardant thinners to use.
So have no got some of those on order which, will arrive tomorrow. Today will be a rest day to let things dry, especially as it is supposed to be on and off showers today, although a lot cooler.
Easiest to use a long drill bit (so you can get the flattest angle without the drill getting in the way, and drill a hole from the pickup cavity to a bridge post hole. You could do it from the control cavity, but there's a lot of guesswork as you can't see the post hole from the rear. It would involve making a template of the front on paper and card, so you could then transfer the post hole position to the rear and also measuring hole depth and working out the drill angle and then trying to keep it there. So KISS principle makes drilling from the pickup cavity the best option. I need to dig out my thinnest long drill, which will undoubtedly have disappeared, and I'll take some photos to show what I did.
A bit better weather today; no rain, warmer and far less wind. But I'm feeling under it a bit, so am not planning on doing much today, apart from adding some more black paint to the headstock faces to build up the thickness.
But I did drill the bridge post ground wire holes. I didn't use a long drill bit as originally planned, as the longest bits I had were all to big for the job (fine for making larger control wire passages in bodies but not for a single thin wire), so I'd ordered a small pin vice drill that came with a whole assortment of very small drill bits (always very useful) that arrived today.
GSJ-1. You can just see the drill bit poking through at the bottom of the post hole:
GSM-1, showing the pin drill. Masking tape on the edge of the rout to prevent any damage from using the drill.
The GSJ-1 has had a coat of Heritage Cherry lacquer applied, whilst the GSM-1 is yet to have it, hence the difference in colours between the two bodies.
Nice tidy work as always Mr. Barden, nicely done😉A bit better weather today; no rain, warmer and far less wind. But I'm feeling under it a bit, so am not planning on doing much today, apart from adding some more black paint to the headstock faces to build up the thickness.
But I did drill the bridge post ground wire holes. I didn't use a long drill bit as originally planned, as the longest bits I had were all to big for the job (fine for making larger control wire passages in bodies but not for a single thin wire), so I'd ordered a small pin vice drill that came with a whole assortment of very small drill bits (always very useful) that arrived today.
GSJ-1. You can just see the drill bit poking through at the bottom of the post hole:
GSM-1, showing the pin drill. Masking tape on the edge of the rout to prevent any damage from using the drill.
The GSJ-1 has had a coat of Heritage Cherry lacquer applied, whilst the GSM-1 is yet to have it, hence the difference in colours between the two bodies.
FrankenLab:
Turning tone wood into expensive sawdust since 2016!
Good thinking Simon! I never even thought of that. I went from the electronics well to the tail piece post. Wasn't pretty, 3rd time lucky!A bit better weather today; no rain, warmer and far less wind. But I'm feeling under it a bit, so am not planning on doing much today, apart from adding some more black paint to the headstock faces to build up the thickness.
But I did drill the bridge post ground wire holes. I didn't use a long drill bit as originally planned, as the longest bits I had were all to big for the job (fine for making larger control wire passages in bodies but not for a single thin wire), so I'd ordered a small pin vice drill that came with a whole assortment of very small drill bits (always very useful) that arrived today.
GSJ-1. You can just see the drill bit poking through at the bottom of the post hole:
GSM-1, showing the pin drill. Masking tape on the edge of the rout to prevent any damage from using the drill.
The GSJ-1 has had a coat of Heritage Cherry lacquer applied, whilst the GSM-1 is yet to have it, hence the difference in colours between the two bodies.
The tail piece and the bridge holes were out about 3mm on mine. Had to do some filing of the bridge and tail piece to get them both to fit.
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