Tindrrel's JR-1M

[Tindrrel]

So this gap where the neck meets the body bothers me.



I got a piece of scrap mahogany and started shaping it.



It's taking form. Lost the light before I got it quite all the way there. Still more to do.


I'm going to try and make it follow the same curve as the neck was following before it turned parallel with the body.

(Not the sharp change this image shows, I haven't started on that edge of the piece yet.)

However, since the original has a rounded edge when I place my flat piece on it there will be a small gap. (Or a step before the curve continues, and I don't want a step.)

I'm wondering if the behlen grain filler will set hard enough to bog this or if there is some other putty type thing I should be putting in there to make the transition smooth.

[andrewdosborne]

I know what you mean about this gap and looks like you have a solution to tidy it up nicely. Would be good if the factory could move the tenon joint into the body.

[Tindrrel]

Here's a clearer idea of what I was thinking.


My concern is it won't be an unbroken curve where the neck ends and the fill block starts because the neck has a rounded edge there. All I've got that could fill that at the moment is grainfiller. If that's not the right stuff though, I can get some of whatever is.

[Gavin1393]

Timbermate will work just fine. The key thing about Timbermate is that unlike most other grain fillers it does not shrink back into the hole you filled. Get as much of the shape done that you can with the wooden block you are using, then fill the gaps with timbermate. Allow it to dry thoroughly before sanding to get your final shape. Treat the wood and the timbermate as one at this stage and you should be good to paint thereafter.

[Tindrrel]

Timbermate will work just fine. The key thing about Timbermate is that unlike most other grain fillers it does not shrink back into the hole you filled. Get as much of the shape done that you can with the wooden block you are using, then fill the gaps with timbermate. Allow it to dry thoroughly before sanding to get your final shape. Treat the wood and the timbermate as one at this stage and you should be good to paint thereafter.

Timbermate. Hmm.

I have Behlen Water Base Grain Filler already. Is that one of the "other" that would shrink?

The whole shape will be the wooden block. It's just that because the neck has a curve in as it levels out - there will be a mm or so sized gap before my wooden block starts - indicated in with the small red arrow in my image. It's probably beyond my skill level to recess the filler block so it hugs the neck shape that closely.

In a sudden flash of memory I realise I have some timbermate too. About twenty years old though.

[Gavin1393]

As far as I remember and unless someone can show me otherwise, Timbermate was (and still is) the only product that does NOT shrink when it dries.

[Tindrrel]

And reading up on it, apparently has an indefinite shelf life. So the jarrah timbermate from 20 years ago should still be useable by adding some water. (Even so, might go buy some new product.)

(Jarrah? I've never worked with jarrah...)

[keloooe]

The Jarrah is just the colour Sam. Add a small amount of water to the Timbermate to make like a sticky goo for larger patches and it should be fine

[Tindrrel]

Yeah. I know and in this case the colour doesn't matter. I guess it didn't matter when I bought it either as I have no idea why I would have the jarrah one of all the possible colours.

[Tindrrel]

So the concentric pots arrived today, and the knobs for them. The bushing is about 6mm, about 3mm of that is taken up by the nut and the knob overhanging the nut - leaving about 2mm for the thickness of whatever the pot is mounted on.

The distance from the control cavity to the front face is 6mm. Thinning that down to 2mm seems like a bad idea.

Unless I can figure out a contraption to mount the pots on and maintain the integrity of the front of the guitar I'll have to rethink the electronics all over.


I guess these things are meant to be for on a scratchplate or panel.

If anyone knows where to get long bushing concentric pots?

(The realtone page doesn't say, but the allparts page for the same one does say "intended for pickguard mounting". Oh well.)