good one Doc, on the home stretch now. I'd give the final coats minimum 3 days curing between coats, more if you are patient
good one Doc, on the home stretch now. I'd give the final coats minimum 3 days curing between coats, more if you are patient
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Cheers Wokka, yep, I totally understand the wisdom of being patient, I might just play it safe and give the very last coat of DT CG Final Coat a generous fortnight to dry, I'll see how the second coat of DT CG Final Coat is this coming Sunday, that's another four days from today.
good stuff Doc, DB recommends 3 full weeks curing after last coat before you can polish it.
Gives you plenty of time to do a fret level and get your headstock logo on
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
I'll have to invest in a good set of fret-leveling tools if I'm going to do any fret leveling,incidentally, when I did my last full mock-up build, I noticed that there was relatively very little fret-buzz on the neck that came with my Strat kit, but maybe I might do a fret level later on.
When it comes to do the polishing of the finish on the body, would I be able to get away with just using a small amount of Brasso on a clean rag, or should I really get some Automotive Cut and Polish, and Swirl Remover, assuming I do the polishing by hand?
Update:
I just got a notification in my email from Australia Post saying that my delivery from Adam is ready to be sent, that'll be for the three new Entwistle ASN57 Noiseless Pickups I've ordered for my Strat build....woohoo!!
Everything is really coming together now.
good one Doc. I've never used Brasso to polish a guitar but I know it works really well polishing frets. Give it a go on the body but I'd say automotive polish should give you a better shine and result
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Doc, yeah worth running it by DB, I'd say he will recommend using automotive car polishes. By all means polish your frets with Brasso
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
I actually found that 0000 grade Steel Wool is great for burnishing frets to a good shine too, you need to make sure the neck isn't installed on the guitar body though, otherwise you get Steel Wool particles in your pickups, been really liking what the application of Dingowax does to the fretboard, I've applied Dingowax to the fretboard of the Strat neck and the neck of my Ibby guitar, might do it to my LP Studio.
If you use 0000 Grade steel wool to burnish the frets to a good shine you need to give the neck a good brush to get rid of any residual Steel Wool particles.
Last edited by DrNomis_44; 30-03-2016 at 01:58 PM.
I wouldnt use Brasso to polish a turd, i would spend a little cash and get something decent like Meguiar's or the like.