I brought it inside yesterday and I have clamped it to the office bench. I feel more comfortable with it not getting the cold night air onto it outside in the shed.
Hmm....
I am now considering doing another but with red dye and a baritone neck.
Chris
that will be very nice after some buffing leave it for a good week then 2000 w&D (make sure you use a small sanding block)then hit him with some Meguiars Ultimate compound and you'll need your sunglasses to look at it dont get to worried it will block out just fine it looks like you got your head around it nice work christodavOriginally Posted by christodav
SCA clear as per Phrozin's recommendation.
It wasn't all smooth sailing though. I copped a few blobs a couple of times causing what look like runs. I am hopeful that I have enough clear coat to sand it all out. Fingers crossed. Now I have to wait - again. I hate watching paint dry.
Chris
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126 guitars done so far still going, 34 Starts, 25 Teles, 27 Les Pauls, 11 SGs, 8 Hollow Body, 21 Super Strats
Thanks mate! I am looking forward to it. I have it sitting next to me clamped to the desk here and I haven't even been tempted to touch it. I sprayed it on Monday, so it's been almost a week. I hasn't been really warm here at all and it still smells if you get your nose right up to it. I'll be patient and wait a while longer.
Chris
Oh man, that colour and finish is something else! Well done! Reminds me a little of the limited edition Tommy Emmanuel MIM signature Tele... But better!
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That's a pretty big compliment Derek - thanks!
There is still a ways to go and a few challenges yet to overcome, but so far, she's looking quite good.
BTW, there are a couple of undesirable spots on the body where I sanded through the colour a tad etc but still, it has so far turned out better than I thought it would. I have learnt heaps from making mistakes and I think that I can do better next time by not rushing a few steps.
It actually wasn't that difficult to get to this point and pretty cheap considering. Here is a summary of the steps involved.
Sanding and more sanding - this is the step I always rush. If I had have done a better job in the beginning, then the dye would have been a more even colour. getting the sides and corners right is important at this early stage; something I didn't do.
2 x applications of ebony Timbermate - sanding in between and more sanding until you are happy with the grain
2 x applications of blue Angelus Leather dye - light sanding and drying time between (at least 24hrs)
light sanding and/or steel wool and then let completely dry for a week or so. This step all depends on the desired tones of colour etc. Given that it is solid ash, it can always be sanded back and dye re-applied. However, the Timbermate may be sanded out if you sand too much, so you have to balance things out.
Several applications of Gluboost fill n finish and sanding to fill and flatten the body. I used this as a filler and sanding sealer to lock in the dye and fill any of my terrible sanding or lack of especially on the sides of the body. It is easy to also create more trouble at this stage as applications can cause more bumps and imperfections rather like Tru oil does. It's a balance of applying enough not to sand through it, but not too much to cause more pain. The cool thing about this is that you can always re-apply and the dry-time is pretty dam quick. Minutes. You can also stop and polish the Gluboost as a final finish, but the finish is not as strong as an acrylic clear. I sanded it to 600grit. It was mat but a bit washed out. Gloves and mask is really required as this stuff is STRONG. The smell dies down quickly, but without a mask, it can almost knock you out.
Then the SCA clear just like Phrozin applies it. I used a mask, but it isn't a strong toxic smell like the glue or other finishes. I went thick with this stuff and it went on pretty well.
The next step will be 2000grit and polish and hope for the best. LOL
Chris
Yeh, okay, mine could be the better one. They didn't use Timbermate. LOL
It's polishing up nicely, but it is taking some time. I am using my hands as well as a little Milwaukee 12v polisher. There are still a couple of spots that I am not happy with , so I will probably cut back a couple of spots tomorrow and re-polish. Once I am happy, it will be onto attaching the neck and then the placement of the bridge.
Chris
get your self this will make polishing a lot easier thats what i use
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/19Pcs-3i...o1Wx:rk:2:pf:0
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126 guitars done so far still going, 34 Starts, 25 Teles, 27 Les Pauls, 11 SGs, 8 Hollow Body, 21 Super Strats
Yes mate, I got something like that already.(I manage a retail tool place). It's just me being super careful when cutting back with the 2000grit and not paying enough attention to small areas of orange peel until it's all polished up and I see it under the light.
Right now I have come to a grinding halt because the adjustment screws on my Babicz bridge aren't long enough. Babicz sell 25mm ones with the springsin their website, but I have to wait for a reply to find out how much to ship them to Australia. Adam does not offer them on the Pitbull website.So I am now waiting on replies.
Chris
This is gunna be an ultra noob question, but what are the pads for at the bottom of that pic? The ones with the bumpy surface?
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