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Thread: Christodav's JTL-1 Offset tel

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  1. #1
    Member trv's Avatar
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    Beautiful pictures; I can't wait to see how this turns out when you get to sanding & polishing. That blue is amazing, especially with the ebony in the grain
    Build #1 Spalted Maple 'Halcyon' LP-1SS GOTM May 2018

  2. #2
    Member christodav's Avatar
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    I brought it inside yesterday and I have clamped it to the office bench. I feel more comfortable with it not getting the cold night air onto it outside in the shed.

    Hmm....
    I am now considering doing another but with red dye and a baritone neck.

    Chris

  3. #3
    Member christodav's Avatar
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    Thanks mate! I am looking forward to it. I have it sitting next to me clamped to the desk here and I haven't even been tempted to touch it. I sprayed it on Monday, so it's been almost a week. I hasn't been really warm here at all and it still smells if you get your nose right up to it. I'll be patient and wait a while longer.

    Chris

  4. #4
    Oh man, that colour and finish is something else! Well done! Reminds me a little of the limited edition Tommy Emmanuel MIM signature Tele... But better!

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Member christodav's Avatar
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    That's a pretty big compliment Derek - thanks!

    There is still a ways to go and a few challenges yet to overcome, but so far, she's looking quite good.

    BTW, there are a couple of undesirable spots on the body where I sanded through the colour a tad etc but still, it has so far turned out better than I thought it would. I have learnt heaps from making mistakes and I think that I can do better next time by not rushing a few steps.
    It actually wasn't that difficult to get to this point and pretty cheap considering. Here is a summary of the steps involved.

    Sanding and more sanding - this is the step I always rush. If I had have done a better job in the beginning, then the dye would have been a more even colour. getting the sides and corners right is important at this early stage; something I didn't do.
    2 x applications of ebony Timbermate - sanding in between and more sanding until you are happy with the grain
    2 x applications of blue Angelus Leather dye - light sanding and drying time between (at least 24hrs)
    light sanding and/or steel wool and then let completely dry for a week or so. This step all depends on the desired tones of colour etc. Given that it is solid ash, it can always be sanded back and dye re-applied. However, the Timbermate may be sanded out if you sand too much, so you have to balance things out.
    Several applications of Gluboost fill n finish and sanding to fill and flatten the body. I used this as a filler and sanding sealer to lock in the dye and fill any of my terrible sanding or lack of especially on the sides of the body. It is easy to also create more trouble at this stage as applications can cause more bumps and imperfections rather like Tru oil does. It's a balance of applying enough not to sand through it, but not too much to cause more pain. The cool thing about this is that you can always re-apply and the dry-time is pretty dam quick. Minutes. You can also stop and polish the Gluboost as a final finish, but the finish is not as strong as an acrylic clear. I sanded it to 600grit. It was mat but a bit washed out. Gloves and mask is really required as this stuff is STRONG. The smell dies down quickly, but without a mask, it can almost knock you out.
    Then the SCA clear just like Phrozin applies it. I used a mask, but it isn't a strong toxic smell like the glue or other finishes. I went thick with this stuff and it went on pretty well.

    The next step will be 2000grit and polish and hope for the best. LOL

    Chris

  6. #6
    Member christodav's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeh, okay, mine could be the better one. They didn't use Timbermate. LOL

  7. #7
    Member christodav's Avatar
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    It's polishing up nicely, but it is taking some time. I am using my hands as well as a little Milwaukee 12v polisher. There are still a couple of spots that I am not happy with , so I will probably cut back a couple of spots tomorrow and re-polish. Once I am happy, it will be onto attaching the neck and then the placement of the bridge.

    Chris

  8. #8
    Mentor phrozin's Avatar
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    get your self this will make polishing a lot easier thats what i use

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/19Pcs-3i...o1Wx:rk:2:pf:0
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    126 guitars done so far still going, 34 Starts, 25 Teles, 27 Les Pauls, 11 SGs, 8 Hollow Body, 21 Super Strats

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by phrozin View Post
    get your self this will make polishing a lot easier thats what i use

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/19Pcs-3i...o1Wx:rk:2:pf:0
    This is gunna be an ultra noob question, but what are the pads for at the bottom of that pic? The ones with the bumpy surface?
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
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  10. #10
    Member christodav's Avatar
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    They are still just polishing foam pads. So the way they are designed is that if you pull back you have less surface area so less aggressive and if you press down you get more surface area and harsher polishing.

    At least that's the way I understand it/

    Chris

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