TL-1TB Build

[Simon Barden]

I'm always trying to write in general terms, so yes, some of this isn't applicable to Pendragon's guitar, but it did get a bit confusing when he said the strings were hitting the fretboard, so either he'd have to raise the bridge up a bit or reduce the shim height.

You and I may look after out guitars, but there is a large percentage of people who don't. Some people have hands that sweat a lot, and a percentage of those have very acidic sweat, so it's often not long before even a brand new bridge starts to corrode and go rusty. A roller bridge for that type of person may not roll for very long if they aren't constantly cleaning it. For others with dry hands, and who give their guitars a going-over with a duster after use, may well get many many years of use from one.

"As for the problems with roller bridges I guess it comes down to if you don't like something you just make up stuff to justify your bias". Do not ever accuse me of making things up again. I'm just relating my and other peoples experiences and what I believe to be technical facts. I've got no idea what bits you thought I made up, but I only ever want to know the truth about how these things work. Try looking at other people's points of view, rather than dismissing things out of hand.

[fender3x]

...You and I may look after out guitars, but there is a large percentage of people who don't. Some people have hands that sweat a lot, and a percentage of those have very acidic sweat, so it's often not long before even a brand new bridge starts to corrode and go rusty....

I feel that you may have been talking about me. Is that narcissistic? ;-)

For more general consumption...

There is a ton of myth and bias in the guitar world. If there weren't, Guitar World could not get away with pushing $70 guitar cables. One thing I have found very beneficial on this forum is that when a controversial issues is raised, for the most part, people respond with their reasoning and sources. I think that Simon's explanations are sometimes lengthy in order to provide enough detail so that one gets an idea of *why* do something rather than just *what* they should do. An explanation is not an indoctrination. One can offer an alternative explanation or approach. One can offer evidence that is supportive or to the contrary. And I think that is, for the most part, what happens here. No one is forced to believe anything. People regularly question approaches and orthodoxy and give their reasons and evidence. That is welcome here and part of healthy discussion.

That said, I think it is important to remember that everyone here is a volunteer. Ad hominem comments, direct or implied, are not helpful to discussion or community. For my part, I have found the current discussion interesting, particularly since I have never used a roller bridge. Less helpful are comments that challenge the intent or veracity of the poster. Not all posts are laser focused on the build at hand, but may be useful to other members, in this case, like me. I think it's best to treat all posts as sincere attempts to provide something of value.

[Dikkybee007]

Simon where did I say anything about you? If you are offended due to you feeling I directed what I said to you then I feel sorry but you did say that Luthiers you know complained about roller bridges becoming less than perfect due to dirt and gunk building up. I did say that this was due to poor house keeping rather than the design of the bridge. No where did I put a name to this comment.

Most of my Luthier friends, while having great skills, are very biased if you don't use the same gauge strings or the same brand of anything on a guitar and that is what was meant by that part of my reply. I would rather use what I want to use because I know how to use Google and Youtube than listen to someone who is using misinformation and lies to direct me to think their way rather than adapting to what I want to do due to what I have experienced while building guitars and what I used to do for a living.

I have done things to guitars that I was advised not to do because that isn't the way it is done but it worked out fine. Just because it didn't work for you doesn't mean it won't work for me.

[Pendragon]

New bridge post are off centre to existing, will make a drill guide for it and try to fit. Also found the ground wire broke off during fitting clean brake from the solider bit have to wrap bare wire and press fit under the ring this time.

[fender3x]

What did the ground wire break off of? It generally would not be soldered at the string side. If it broke on the wiring harness side...been there and done that ;-)

[Jetblack]

I had a couple of wires break away from the pots, I ended up doing a complete resolder on everything, tucked everything up so no dangelies and used heat shrink to protect from shorts. Probably overkill but everything is working so I no complain.

[Simon Barden]

Heatshrink is good. Always better to be safe than sorry.

[fender3x]

I had a couple of wires break away from the pots

When this happens to me it's often because I did not tin the wire and the pot. Or because I needed a third hand. Best $5 I ever spent ;-)

[Simon Barden]

I've just come across this YouTube channel with lots of tips on soldering. It's mainly for PCBs, but the lessons taught can be applied to most soldering tasks. Warning - strong east-London accent with lots of dropped 'g's at the end of words.

https://www.youtube.com/@mrsolderfix3996

This one on de-soldering was a definite revelation.

What got to me was how easy everything went with a hot iron and the application of some liquid flux. So I'm eagerly waiting for my liquid flux to arrive to see if it does make a big difference. There are various types of flux available, so I'd look for the "no-clean" type. It doesn't mean that there's nothing there to clean up afterwards (as there is), but you don't have to clean it up. Some fluxes are acidic and if left behind, will eat away at the copper.

[PaulFromSydney]

I just built a baritone out of an old strat knock off body (my son's first electric guitar) and a cheap replacement neck I found on e-bay. Put in a lot of effort but also learnt a lot. Yes, when finished it refused to intonate. I removed the springs from the saddle screws and moved the saddles all the way but still achieved little. It came to me suddenly. When I measured the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge line, it was off by about 8mm!!! no less. I thought about moving bridge, but this would effect the tone. Pups should be where they are in respect to the bridge. Plus the esthetics and the work involved etc. So I thought I'll move the neck up instead. I drilled the new holes in the neck's hill, remounted it higher and lo and behold. Perfect tune and intonation.

Also, just an advice, when solder ground, do not solder it to pots. It's messy and it will fall off. Use solder lugs. Guitartrade.com.au sells them. Also line cavities and pickguards with copper tape, that way you'll only ever need one lug.