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Thread: Sonics first build JMA-1: ShoeGazer MK1

  1. #31
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Hi Sonic, sorry just caught up with this build diary, you've been ripping through it.
    First, that Is a great kit. the two toned fretboard is very unique.
    Second, as Simon says if the humbucker tests fine there wont be any issue. I've got a few humbys spare if its no good as I am sure a number of us in Brisbane do.
    Third, the grain is great, but if its a solid colour you want, its your baby no one elses.

    What colour is that? I dig it
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  2. #32
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Thanks Andy. The blue is actually the hi fill primer. But I agree, it does look pretty nice. I'm going for a mica, pastel mint green for the top coats.

  3. #33
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Question time. I ordered some new Graphtech nuts for the guitars I currently have in pieces. I measured a couple of time and settled on the strat style ones - that seemed most logical. So the black nut is off my Washburn and the replacement one (middle) is perfect - correct height and string spacing.



    The white nut here is off the JMA neck. Its quite a bit taller (I think this is normal though for adjustment??) and is just slightly wider with ever so slightly wider string spacing. I don't think it will be a problem, there is maybe .75mm overhang either side of the fret board, but it looks like the strings will still locate over the board. Is this normal? Or is there a particular nut that isn't the strat style I should have ordered?

    I feel like I might end up having to put a shim under it -obviously a little way away from being able to check that properly....

    I also ordered a new one for my bass, that looks like it'll need a slight shim as well, I will probably be able to have a proper look at that this afternoon.

  4. #34
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Hey Sonic, some time you should grab a bunch of chinese bone nut blanks and outlay for some nut slotting files...well worth the practice
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  5. #35
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Um yep, I probably will. For now I'm just going to trim and shim this one as I can't work out what the replacement I should have ordered is, and these ones weren't exactly cheap.

  6. #36
    I recently ordered a Camel bone nut off ebay.
    There was an option for either flat bottom or convex.
    Seems like it should have been an option in this case.

    cheers, Mark.

  7. #37
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    I just went back and checked, no option for the flat base. I got these from Australian Luthier Supplies.

    I measured the existing one with my verniers and this was the only one I could find that even came close. Previously I've gone into somewhere like Bandland with the old nut and matched it up. But I wanted to try these TUSQ versions and not just put another plastic one on.

    Just seems odd that it is a perfect replacement for my Washburn nut, but not the JMA one - the size difference in negligible, but noticeable. I was actually fully expecting to have to file it down, not shim it up.

    Anyway, I'll see whats what after I've done some more finishing work. I think it can be made to work. I was just wondering if someone knew exactly what I should have been looking for as a direct replacement in something other than plastic. Bone is fine, but I have a graphite nut on my Hagstrom and its just so nice to fine tune as the strings slide through it so well, I wanted similar on my other guitars.

  8. #38
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    I always assumed that you only removed the tag in the middle if it wasn't flat, but otherwise the tag was for a flat channel?
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  9. #39
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    The bottom of a Fender-style nut all depends on whether you've got a 'slab' (flat bottomed) or 'veneer' (curved base) fingerboard.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The nut base follows the fingerboard profile. On most (but not all) veneer-style necks, the truss rod channel is exposed at the bottom of the nut slot, and the tab on the curved-bottom nut fits in the slot to help locate it. You don't need the tab in order to glue a curved nut in place, and a lot of replacement nuts do come without the tab.

    If you've got a curved nut slot but no exposed truss rod slot (especially if it's a thick fretboard so the nut slot doesn't go all the way through), then you need to remove the tab or the nut won't fit.

  10. #40
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    The issue is not the curved base. As Andy said, it has a tang at the bottom so could be used for either.

    What is puzzling me is the difference in width and string spacing and the question I am asking is what should I have ordered if these are not a fender strat style nut?
    Last edited by Sonic Mountain; 30-08-2017 at 04:29 AM.

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