Cut some pieces of scrap wood that will fit inside the pegbox but be long enogh that yu can grip them, then glue some sandpaper onto them. If you don't have specific tools that will work/fit, the it's probably your best option... but the sanding still won't be easy.
Scott.
Yeah, I'll take yours and wokkas advice regarding the pegbox. I'll give it a try. Depending on how it goes I'm not sure what I'll do with the pegbox.
I spent some time trying to sand away the darker parts of the headstock that I messed up... Looks pretty impossible to fix without starting it over (and it's a right pain in the ass to sand). I might have to get creative and draw a black spiral around those parts with a paintbrush - to make it at least look intentional.
Not sure yet.
Hey guys, I tried to take a drill to the screw, but it doesn't go in. It stripped the top completely and from there does nothing.
Any ideas? Whats the name of the drill bit type I need? Is my bit too large? it's just under the size of the screw head
Last edited by ihasmario; 20-01-2016 at 03:47 PM.
False alarm, got it out flawlessly...
Had my drill spinning the wrong way lmao
bwhahaha trap for young players. Drills don't work very well in reverse you will find
well done that's a good step to get done
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
So I've gone and cleaned up the over-stain as best as I can. I like it enough that I am not going to bother doing the black spiral. I think it looks "OK". Not world class contrabass tier but it looks good for a not so little dinky upright banjo... Rustic.
I was just checking out the next steps I need to do (some drilling and attaching the fingerboard) and ran into two problems. It hadn't actually occurred to me that the tuning machines are oversized in a string instrument like this. They actually go all the way through the peg box, and partially out the other side. This means I have some annoying measurements to do first of all, and second of all that I probably need to use or have access to a drill press... More on that later....
The second problem is that the fretboard is slightly undersized for the neck - which I should have checked earlier. Essentially the neck isn't cut as straight as it should be along the fretboard surface, and thus doesn't sit flush. How does one go about remedying this? Do I glue the fretboard to the neck and then sand the neck down to be flush with the fretboard and then restain?
Pegbox is going to go black on the inside.
Here's a pic with the gold hardware. It looks really nice, but unfortunately I couldn't get any gold drum hardware... So maybe I should have gone with chrome for this
Last edited by ihasmario; 20-01-2016 at 05:20 PM.
Hi Chris, can you please post a pic of the neck/fingerboard.
I'd say you will have to glue the f/b as centred as you can then sand the neck down to suit
Headstock looks great
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Hey Wokka, here's the fretboard pushed over to one side (maybe overhanging slightly). It's actually hard to post it centred and get a clear picture of each side.Originally Posted by wokkaboy
The effect is that there's about 0.2-0.6mm overhang as the neck reverse tapers. So halve what you see here if I centre the neck.
Is there any possibility for adding a tapered edge with something like binding on guitar kits to make a smooth ledge for the hands? While the fingerboard is smooth the ends are flat I think it would be workable and comfortable to have them rounded off with some kind of binding. It would also mean I won't have to restain a lot of it (as I think I just ran out of stain as I finished staining everything).
Last edited by ihasmario; 21-01-2016 at 09:55 AM.
Hey Chris, binding on the side of the fingerboard will look cool and should make the gap to side of the neck much less.
Make sure the binding is wider than the thickness of the fingerboard.
Have you thought about fret dot markers, they will have to go either in the top of the fingerboard or side of the neck. Depends which face will be more visible to the player, thinking the fretboard may be easier to see as the player leans over the bass
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Hey wokka,
Fret dots are an interesting idea. I can't actually play the upright bass right now - I intend to learn after making it - fret dots could help.
I'm not sure about the calculations involved with this, so I would need to go ahead and research that. I'm also not sure how difficult it would be to drill and do it. I'd hate to stuff up a huge chunk of nice wood
Would it be correct to say that I should glue the binding to the fretboard, sand it down and then glue it all to the neck and then sand that down?
I've never done binding before so I need to go research it
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