Here's the StewMac bit with a bearing in place after making a cut (for 1.62mm if I recall correctly):
And, this is part of the cut it made:
Barge, I'd advise making a few practice cuts to check the sharpness of the bit and adjust your speed (both of the router and how quick you move it) to ensure you get as clean and scorch free cut as possible. And, do a depth test with a piece of your particular binding to make sure it does give you the depth you want/need.
Scott.
Yeah roger that man, I'd planned on many test pieces before I attempt the real deal. Just out of curiosity did you do that with the router on top of the body or was it set up upside down in a table? Nice lookin' job btw, if I can get close to that I'll be a happy camper:-)
Yep, I did that cut from the top of the body with the set up exactly as it is in the first pic (it's actually a trimmer). It was a flat deck Tele so I could safely run along the top of the body, although I did fit a block in the neck pocket to support the edges while making the rout.
With a carved top things aren't as straight forward...
Scott.
Shit I could only imagine, I'll keep it simple for now with the flat tops until I get some more experience under my belt.
With a carved top things aren't as straight forward...
Just another thing, I was reading this stuff was okay for gluing so I got a tin, any experience using CA?
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
The best product I have found is the brushable super glue from Stewmac.
Grab yourself a bottle and their binding tape, it makes the job so much faster, easier and cleaner as you can get the glue exactly where you need it!
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Or, if you are very patient and can wait a few days for it to cure, good ole Tarzans Grip is great stuff
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Another tip, when routing binding ledges it is best to work your way down to the correct depth.
This reduces the wear and tear on the router bit and also gives you a much cleaner cut.
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Yeah I was watching a dude brushing something like that in a vid the other day, he didn't say exactly what it was but it sure looked like super glue (very watery)./<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on September 4, 2014, 19:24
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
The best product I have found is the brushable super glue from Stewmac.
Could you get away with using just regular super glue in the tubes or is that different again?
Righto done, if I'm going down 6mm and in 1.5 how many times (roughly) would I need to step down before I get there you reckon?/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on September 4, 2014, 19:27
Another tip, when routing binding ledges it is best to work your way down to the correct depth.
This reduces the wear and tear on the router bit and also gives you a much cleaner cut.
First part. Hardware store super glues are way to thin and runny. The Stewmac brush-able is a medium consistency so a thin layer will stay put long enough for you to tape the binding in place.
I usually glue 200mm at a time.
Second part, start with the bearing that takes off the least amount and work in to the final width of the binding.
You can start off with the router set at the correct depth of the binding, just take it slow
It is a wise move to leave the binding slightly proud, you can then trim it with the flush cut bearing attached.
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
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