First Build - AES-1 AHAHAHAHA

[McCreed]

A few other notes on string/neck alignment with a TOM bridge are:

Don't press in the bridge & tail piece bushings. Wrap tape around the threads of the posts just thick enough to friction fit into the post holes in the body (I use painters tape for anything involving guitars).
I also have some clear nylon tubing that coincidentally happens to be the perfect inside & outside diameter for doing this. It was a happy accident. I just happened to have some tubing in the shop.

You don't necessarily need to use guitar strings for this job. I use a heavy fishing line, but nearly any kind of string can be used.
Tie a big enough knot in one end to act as the "ball end" of a normal guitar string so it can be retained in the tail piece.
Then simply tie the other end to the tuner post and use the nut slots to hold the proper spacing.
It doesn't need to be tuned to any pitch, just tight enough that there's no sag.

[Scramblermatt]

So it turns out I wasn’t being as stupid as previously thought!

The tuning pegs for this kit don’t screw in from the top there is just two screws to attach it from the back and a gold ring that slots in the hole...so do I just screw it in and accept there will be holes when I finish the neck or is the a super secret alternative??



And just out of interest which way should they go eventually...

1)



2)



Thanks again chaps!

[Scramblermatt]

So I’ve had a good go at it today!

Started by clamping the neck on fitting the bridge to check the scale length and string alignment. In the end I had to push the gold ring things into the headstock so it would hold the tuning peg in place without being screwed in.

Then I decided to sand the neck and oil it. I’m using a danish wood oil for the neck and after a couple of coats I’m pretty pleased with how it’s looking...another coat tomorrow and then I’ll leave the neck alone for a bit.





Then I taped up the binding ready for me to stain the sides once they arrive...



Also ordered a fret levelling block and notched straight edge so once they arrive can crack on with the fret!

[Simon Barden]

D'oh! Vintage style tuners are quite rare on PBG kits.

Tuners go the way shown in the upper photo, with the bulk of the tuner facing the neck.

You could probably have held the tuners on with some masking tape wrapped round the headstock for testing purposes.

Please, please make sure you mask off all the bits of the neck that will be glued to the body (and also the pocket interior itself. You want wood on wood contact or the joint will be very weak. You want the minimum of any finish getting in the way, just 1mm or so overlap at the very edges.

[McCreed]

Is it just an photographic illusion, or are the rows of tuner holes uneven? Meaning one set of 3 are closer to the nut than the other.

[Scramblermatt]

Is it just an photographic illusion, or are the rows of tuner holes uneven? Meaning one set of 3 are closer to the nut than the other.

I think it’s just the pic...here’s another one...

[McCreed]

Ahhh... that 's better!

[Scramblermatt]

Morning chaps!

So just a quick one...?!

I have a fret levelling beam so I can check the frets are level but once I’ve done that I then need to recrown them...I’ve done this before so I’m not too worried about doing that but my question is about fret crowning files.

I’ve had a look and they’re really expensive! I’m really enjoying attempting this and would like to do another but as there is no guarantee at this stage that I’ll build another guitar I’m hesitant to spend big on files that will be used once!

Do you have any recommendation of good cheaper files or is it a case you just have to stump up for some good ones?

Or does anyone have any they would sell/lend out??

Thanks again!

Matt

[Simon Barden]

I use this one as well as my more expensive crowning files. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works really quickly. I find it does leave a bit of a cross-fret mark on the end of the frets that you'll need to sand down flat afterwards otherwise you'll get really 'grabby' string bends.

Otherwise I mainly use one of these. https://www.chrisalsopguitar.co.uk/s...ond-file-TF081

I often start with the Amazon file and then finish with the diamond file.

Two important things. 1) always mask the board and 2) mark the frets with a black Sharpie or other permanent marker after you've levelled them, then use the crown file until you've still just got a very thin line of black along the top. Then you know that the top of the frets are still level. Carry on after the line's gone and you start making them uneven again.

I then use rising grades of wet and dry to smooth the frets off, starting with P240. I normally give the frets the same number of sanding strokes to (in theory) keep the frets as level as possible. Normally 50-100 strokes for the P240, until all cross-fret marks have gone, and then 10-20 strokes of other grits and then onto the micromesh until they are really shiny. You can slo use various grades of wire wool to polish the frets, but it does make more mess. Then I normally give them a final polish using Autosol, though Brasso works as well.

Ir the neck is on the guitar and the guitar has pickups fitted, then cover up the pickups fully with masking tape as you don't want metal filings sticking to them. The filings will rust over time and any that settle on the windings will corrode the winding insulation and the pickups then stop working.

[Scramblermatt]

Thanks Simon.

I did a fret dressing course a few years ago so pretty comfortable with it just don't have any of the required tools YET! I'll take a look at those files!