Bargeloob's STA-1

[stan]

if you are resanding then whatever you like is the go, it can become whatever
I think standard is 9.5, dunno if the kits are compound...

[bargeloobs]

if you are resanding then whatever you like is the go, it can become whatever
I think standard is 9.5, dunno if the kits are compound...

Yeah well that's what I was thinking, if I'm taking it back anyway why not do whatever. Only problem I foresee is the amount that's going to have to be taken off to get back to level, it's pretty damn lop-sided on the northern left side and might make for a fairly thin fretboard once it's sorted. I can see problems with the dots too, because you just know the factory used the thinnest ones available, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.
Hey, if this is gonna be my last Pitbull build, one way or another it'll be a good one.

[stan]

you'll have to really bias your sanding to the high side.
shouldnt be too major an issue for the dots. Sand the buggers out and redo them

[bargeloobs]

you'll have to really bias your sanding to the high side.
shouldnt be too major an issue for the dots. Sand the buggers out and redo them

Hell yeah, paua styles!!

[WeirdBits]

Things may have changed, but the stock plastic dots I've replaced have been pretty thick, like in this post. The stock radius is generally 12", so if you're dropping it to 9.5" it may not take too much off the dots anyway. Good luck with it Barge.

[bargeloobs]

Things may have changed, but the stock plastic dots I've replaced have been pretty thick, like in this post. The stock radius is generally 12", so if you're dropping it to 9.5" it may not take too much off the dots anyway. Good luck with it Barge.

Ahh yes, I remember this one. Great info Scott, I'll most definitely keep it in mind if things go pear shaped with the dots, thanks man.

[kimball492]

Making a radius sanding block
Weird for some reason the link didn't paste let's try again lol
http://youtu.be/CWN5AqNeDfE

[bargeloobs]

Making a radius sanding block
Weird for some reason the link didn't paste let's try again lol
http://youtu.be/CWN5AqNeDfE

I actually tried this method and it's a lot harder than it looks. It's all pretty straight forward up until the part where you have to plane the convex radius. It's all very well following the radius marks on the ends of the wood but trying to run them along the length of the timber with any sort of accuracy is extremely difficult. First attempt was a failure. Not sure if I'll have another go or move on and try a different technique.

[wokkaboy]

good luck Barge, glad the build is continuing. Concentrate on sanding the high side and the dot markers may be ok. Is the high side on the dot or non dot (treble) side of the fingerboard ?

[bargeloobs]

good luck Barge, glad the build is continuing. Concentrate on sanding the high side and the dot markers may be ok. Is the high side on the dot or non dot (treble) side of the fingerboard ?

The build was never not going to continue, but as I'd blown my budget I just didn't know how. I'm just lucky my beautiful missus took pity on me and bought me some tools, albiet tools that should have never had to of been purchased in the first place, thanks again Adam.
I'm not really going to know the true extent of the problem until I can get the frets off, mark with chalk and take a swipe with the radius beam, but just looking at it, the dip appears to be on the bass side of the dots and runs from roughly the 7th fret down to the nut.