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Thread: Mike's build #2: STA-1

  1. #21
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    That's sexy man...really like how that's coming up.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  2. #22
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    That's sexy man...really like how that's coming up.
    I second that

    She's a bad girl
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  3. #23
    Been a slow week of progress, but got back on her today.

    So far, it's been 6 thin coats of tru oil, then a very light run with 0000 steel wool, then did coat number 7 today. Aiming for 12 coats.

    Not sure if steel wool is the best thing to use, should I use 600 grit instead?

    She's looking gorgeous so far though!

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    #1 TL-1 (+design creep): Finished! http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5567
    #2 STA-1 - Adding tru-oil onto the body http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7952

  4. #24
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Steel wool can leave some particles behind, I think most people use 800-1000 grit wet and dry with some diluted tru oil?
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  5. Liked by: michaelS31

  6. #25
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'm using P800 paper with turps to rub down my Tru-Oil finishes once dry. I'm not convinced Tru-Oil is waterproof, so I avoid using water for rubbing down. I did try soapy water once, but I saw evidence of some grain swelling so I stopped (then again I may just have sanded back a bit too far). At some point you are going to have to stop adding tru-oil and do the final sanding back (if you plan to polish it further), so I suggest using turps for that, even if you've rubbed down using diluted tru-oil previously.

  7. Liked by: michaelS31

  8. #26
    Thanks Simon and Frankenwashie for the good advice!

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    #1 TL-1 (+design creep): Finished! http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5567
    #2 STA-1 - Adding tru-oil onto the body http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7952

  9. #27
    Hey Simon, I tried some 600 grit with turps, it left it smooth but its left all these grainy spots. Is that normal? Looks like gaps have been filled with the sanded off finish, mixed with turps. Should I have gone with diluted tru oil instead?

    Changed to the black pick guard today and took a photo of a mock up to keep myself sane.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    #1 TL-1 (+design creep): Finished! http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5567
    #2 STA-1 - Adding tru-oil onto the body http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7952

  10. #28
    Grainy isn't the right word, but hopefully the pic is clear

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    #1 TL-1 (+design creep): Finished! http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5567
    #2 STA-1 - Adding tru-oil onto the body http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7952

  11. #29
    Member juanitasanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    It may be arseways but here's my method before I start making mods.

    1. I would measure and mark the centre of the neck at the nut, at the 12th and the heel;

    2. I would measure and mark the centre of the heel rout in the body and the trem rout;

    3. Then I would check that the neck is centered with the body and the trem rout (to make sure no modifications are needed - there shouldn't)

    4. I would mark the centre position of the the bridge then square it up and fit and drill accordingly;

    5. I would then put the low and High E tuning pegs in the neck, clamp the neck into place, then to a dry fit with the low and High E strings loaded though the trem. You will then see where to move the neck (there is a nit of wiggle room) so it is positioned so that there is even room all the way along the fretboard with both the low and High E strings.

    at that point you will know thats where you want to drill the neck in place.

    you can check where the pen dots are positioned at that time or just plug and redrill the whole lot.

    I use 6mm tassie oak doweling from the big green shed to plug.

    if you do plug and redrill, make sure you use the neck plate to square it up on the back
    Like it...mark and measure..thanks for this nice snapshot of info

  12. #30
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It's mainly Tru-Oil dust, along with some of the grit from the paper, and a wipe with a clean rag, wetted with turps or white spirit, should clean them up. But some of the look may be due to breaking through the Tru-Oil and exposing the wood. Just keep adding the Tru-Oil layers and rubbing back from time to time.

  13. Liked by: michaelS31

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