I used a realparts pick guard on my Tele, it needed a tiny bit of sanding around the neck fit but was other wise fine.
I used a realparts pick guard on my Tele, it needed a tiny bit of sanding around the neck fit but was other wise fine.
Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
Build 15 PBG-2-
Build 14 FTD-1
Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
Build 12 DM-1S
Build 11 MKA-2 -
Build 10 Basic strat
Build 9 JM Kustom
Build 8 FV-1G
Build 7 ES-2V
Build 6- Community prototype
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Thanks for the help with the pickguard everyone, I'll look into the various options. Wish I had have just ordered the white pearloid when I ordered the kit but I didn't know then what finish I was doing... Are the PBG ones just as good as ones from realparts etc.? (They're a lot cheaper haha)
First coat of woodwash went on this morning. Ended up wiping on with a cloth rather than brushing on. I'm really happy with how it went on - the colour is spot on for what I wanted (actually more turquoise than it looks in the photo) whilst still really highlighting the grain. 2nd coat will hopefully solidify the colour a bit more but keep the grain nicely, then on to clear coat. Intending to get onto headstock shaping this afternoon.
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Last edited by Moo; 30-12-2016 at 04:50 PM.
Unless you are going for a pre-aged vintage style pickguard, then they really all are pretty similar. Some will be slightly thinner than others but the plastic used is basically the same. Main differences are in the screw hole positioning, which can be slightly out compared to stock versions, but that's not an issue for a new-build. As has been mentioned, some may need a bit of sanding to get a god fit around the neck - but that's generally more to do with the neck width than the pickguard.
Headstock shaping done (went classic tele-style). Cut roughly with jigsaw and then sanded to shape. Pretty happy with overall result.
Have sanded the neck which is feeling pretty nice, but just wondering what do I do for the actual fingerboard itself? I've given it a once-over with steel wool as it was feeling pretty rough (not sure if this was a good idea). But what's the actual process for preparing the fingerboard?
Great job on the headstock Moo.
With a maple fret board steel wool sanding whilst polishing up the frets will work. What did you have in mind for the finish? Were you going to cover it with a clear coat of something or just hit with lemon oil or wax?
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Thanks Waz![]()
Not sure about the finish. I've got some satin clear coat for the neck, would you recommend using that on the fingerboard, or go the wax/oil option? This is the first time I've built a guitar so I don't really know how you'd go about either... The other guitars I own don't seem to have clear coat on the fingerboard but I've played some that do which were nice too...
Last edited by Moo; 02-01-2017 at 02:30 PM.
Looking great Moo, both the body colour and the headstock! What are you going to use as a top-coat? Make sure it's clear. I used Tru-Oil over a similar colour and it turned it green. You don't want to change that colour at all!!
cheers,
Gav.
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Build #01: BC-1
Build #02: ST-1
Build #03: JR-1DC
Build #04: ES-2V
Build #05: ESB-4 (GOTM July 2014)
Build #06: RC-1
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Build #0A: LPA-1
Build #0B: STA-1 (GOTM April 2015)
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Build #0E: JB-1
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Thanks Gavin! I'm pretty happy with how it's progressing. For the top coat I'm using a clear coat by the same company who make the woodwash I used. I think it's called Porter's... I basically just went into the local paint shop and asked for advice and they set me up really well. I've got a gloss coat for the body and satin for the neckJust trying to sort out headstock decals and fingerboard finish etc. before I apply clear coat. Also have to wait for new pickguard to arrive
I'm also looking into fret levelling, but with no prior experience (and therefore I don't have the proper tools) just wondering if it's really worth the risk when there's only a few that aren't right?
Hi Moo headstock looking great. For the fingerboard I generally use a lemon or orange oil and it gives a great smell ! Or Dingowax works good too. Keep rolling with the build !
With the fret level if you have a 600mm ruler try and get the neck flat as you can turning the truss rod small amounts. With a soft hammer try knocking the frets so they are seated. Use the ruler as a rough guide to see if the frets are fairly flat. Most necks I have found need a bit of levelling or at least seat the frets with a fret hammer so hard rubber. Generally the high frets will buzz when next to a lower fret up the fretboard. Best of luck
Last edited by wokkaboy; 02-01-2017 at 03:24 PM.
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Have a look at using a box cutter blade as a fret rocker much more accurate edge than a ruler, still use a notched steel rule to set the truss rod first though.
I also use an alloy spirit level from a certain unmentionable hardware store for fret levelling rather than spending buckets of cash with Stewmac, it has a true machined surface to attach the paper to.