Moo's TLA-1 - My First Build

[Dedman]

I used a realparts pick guard on my Tele, it needed a tiny bit of sanding around the neck fit but was other wise fine.

[Moo]

Thanks for the help with the pickguard everyone, I'll look into the various options . Wish I had have just ordered the white pearloid when I ordered the kit but I didn't know then what finish I was doing... Are the PBG ones just as good as ones from realparts etc.? (They're a lot cheaper haha)

First coat of woodwash went on this morning. Ended up wiping on with a cloth rather than brushing on. I'm really happy with how it went on - the colour is spot on for what I wanted (actually more turquoise than it looks in the photo) whilst still really highlighting the grain. 2nd coat will hopefully solidify the colour a bit more but keep the grain nicely, then on to clear coat. Intending to get onto headstock shaping this afternoon.

[Simon Barden]

Unless you are going for a pre-aged vintage style pickguard, then they really all are pretty similar. Some will be slightly thinner than others but the plastic used is basically the same. Main differences are in the screw hole positioning, which can be slightly out compared to stock versions, but that's not an issue for a new-build. As has been mentioned, some may need a bit of sanding to get a god fit around the neck - but that's generally more to do with the neck width than the pickguard.

[Moo]

Headstock shaping done (went classic tele-style). Cut roughly with jigsaw and then sanded to shape. Pretty happy with overall result.


Have sanded the neck which is feeling pretty nice, but just wondering what do I do for the actual fingerboard itself? I've given it a once-over with steel wool as it was feeling pretty rough (not sure if this was a good idea). But what's the actual process for preparing the fingerboard?

[wazkelly]

Great job on the headstock Moo.

With a maple fret board steel wool sanding whilst polishing up the frets will work. What did you have in mind for the finish? Were you going to cover it with a clear coat of something or just hit with lemon oil or wax?

[Moo]

Great job on the headstock Moo.

With a maple fret board steel wool sanding whilst polishing up the frets will work. What did you have in mind for the finish? Were you going to cover it with a clear coat of something or just hit with lemon oil or wax?

Thanks Waz
Not sure about the finish. I've got some satin clear coat for the neck, would you recommend using that on the fingerboard, or go the wax/oil option? This is the first time I've built a guitar so I don't really know how you'd go about either... The other guitars I own don't seem to have clear coat on the fingerboard but I've played some that do which were nice too...

[wazkelly]

Thanks Waz
Not sure about the finish. I've got some satin clear coat for the neck, would you recommend using that on the fingerboard, or go the wax/oil option? This is the first time I've built a guitar so I don't really know how you'd go about either... The other guitars I own don't seem to have clear coat on the fingerboard but I've played some that do which were nice too...

Hi Moo, your choice how you finish the fret board. I have used Dingo Wax on a couple of Rosewood fret boards and lemon oil on another and whilst a bit more effort was required I would have to say that wax is better. This is how most rosewood fret boards are finished however with maple store bought ones are coated in some form of lacquer. If that is the feel and look you are after use the same stuff on the back & front of your neck but be prepared to clean the finish off each of the 21 frets when your are done. Upside is low on-going maintenance, downside is more prep work to get it ready to play. On my J Bass I used Tru Oil with about 6 coats on the fret board as they go on quite thin.

Using wax or lemon/orange oil on maple fret boards will require reapplications periodically, wax maybe not so often but be prepared to re-oil every string change or maybe every 2nd or 3rd if things still look and feel ok. Leaving maple this way can bring on a bit more of a grimy appearance over time too.

[gavinturner]

Looking great Moo, both the body colour and the headstock! What are you going to use as a top-coat? Make sure it's clear. I used Tru-Oil over a similar colour and it turned it green. You don't want to change that colour at all!!

cheers,
Gav.

[Moo]

Looking great Moo, both the body colour and the headstock! What are you going to use as a top-coat? Make sure it's clear. I used Tru-Oil over a similar colour and it turned it green. You don't want to change that colour at all!!

cheers,
Gav.

Thanks Gavin! I'm pretty happy with how it's progressing. For the top coat I'm using a clear coat by the same company who make the woodwash I used. I think it's called Porter's... I basically just went into the local paint shop and asked for advice and they set me up really well. I've got a gloss coat for the body and satin for the neck Just trying to sort out headstock decals and fingerboard finish etc. before I apply clear coat. Also have to wait for new pickguard to arrive

I'm also looking into fret levelling, but with no prior experience (and therefore I don't have the proper tools) just wondering if it's really worth the risk when there's only a few that aren't right?

[wokkaboy]

Hi Moo headstock looking great. For the fingerboard I generally use a lemon or orange oil and it gives a great smell ! Or Dingowax works good too. Keep rolling with the build !
With the fret level if you have a 600mm ruler try and get the neck flat as you can turning the truss rod small amounts. With a soft hammer try knocking the frets so they are seated. Use the ruler as a rough guide to see if the frets are fairly flat. Most necks I have found need a bit of levelling or at least seat the frets with a fret hammer so hard rubber. Generally the high frets will buzz when next to a lower fret up the fretboard. Best of luck