TL-1 (Factory second)

[peterh]

Making decent progress with the finishing so far.
I've gotten 3 coats of Tru Oil on the body and it's starting to level out and get an overall sheen to it (after first couple coats there were still patches where it looked like it was still soaking in more than others).
I also stained the neck with the same dye as the face of the body. I masked off the fretboard since pretty much everyone recommends not staining the fretboard - just use Dr Duck condition. I'm just wondering now, what's the best way to put the TO on. Should I keep the masking on and leave the side edge of the fretboard unfinished (just with dr duck) or should I remove the masking on the side (leave the top of the fretboard masked) and put TO all the way up the side to the top face of the fretboard? I'm also wondering whether I should put any finish on the heel of the neck where it fits into the body - will it make the fit too tight?




The dark sunburst effect on the edge seems to have faded on me and now looks like more of a distressed/worn effect that isn't what I intended but I still think it looks okay.
Hope to get another coat or two of TO on the body this weekend. It's very dry and warm in the basement - each thin layer seems to dry within 24hrs.

[peterh]

While putting a second layer of TO on the neck today, I noticed a dark line on the side of the fretboard. At first I thought it was a wayward hair from our black lab, but on closer inspection it looks like the fretboard may be cracked. There is a matching line on the other side of the fretboard as well, starting at the 6th fret and running towards the 5th fret. It starts at the base of the fret marking etched on the side of the fretboard and running deeper towards the wood making up the main part of the neck. Here's a picture showing what I mean.


Anyone know if I should be worried about this? Do you think the fretboard will start to crack up through the fret?

[peterh]

Starting to look at getting the hardware in place on this build and while reviewing the bag of parts I realized I had no idea what to do with the 5 springs. I know 2 are for the neck PUP and 3 for the bridge, but how/where do you install them? Do you take the bolts out of the PUPS and then put the bolts through the bridge/pickguard, through the spring, then back into the PUP? Does anyone have a picture of what they should look like?

[wokkaboy]

Hey Peter, great progress. I haven't got a picture but the pickup springs but you are correct with your assumption. The springs will go between the pickup and pickguard for the neck pup and between the bridge pup and bridge plate. Just allows the pickup heights to be adjusted up and down during the setup phase.
Other questions you have asked staining the neck heel will not affect a bolt on neck. If it was a set (glued) neck then you want that section to be bare maple. Think the crack on the side of the fingerboard should be ok, looks like a very thin crack. Keep an eye on it when the axe is stringed up and playing.
With tru oil of the side of the neck I usually remove the masking tape and oil up to the top edge of the fingerboard so all the levels are the same.
Axe is looking great, love the colour !

[Andy40]

Woah! Peter, that colour is looking fantastic. I would apply TO without the masking tape. It gets tacky quickly and you add it in thin coats so to prevent runs. Like Wokks said you probably want it to be even. Nevertheless, you can always sand it back from the edge of the fret board if you don't like it.

[peterh]

@Wokka,
Thanks for your confirming what to do with the springs. Got them installed now and I think I've done it correctly (for the bridge at least). Regarding the crack, Adam has graciously said he will replace it, as it looks like a factory defect (can't beat the customer service!). So I'm going to order kit #3 (FS-1 or ES-2V) and get him to send the replacement neck along with it.
@Andy, Yeah I really like the way the colours came out, especially for my first attempt at mixing dyes. I wish the sunburst and come out a bit stronger with the dark around the edge, but I'm happy.
Not getting a really thick even finish with the Tru Oil but it really does protect - I know 'cause I knocked the body onto the floor the other day (water softener overflowed and when I went to clear space around it, I knocked the case that the body was sitting on - just about cried - but the most noticeable ding is on the backside so you don'y notice it as much.
Dumb question of the day..... the neck plate that goes on the back came with a little plastic 'tray' that it was sitting in. It has holes where the screw holes in the plate are..... do you install the plate with that plastic thingy under it or just throw it away and use just the metal plate directly on the back of the body?

[Andy40]

@Wokka,
I know 'cause I knocked the body onto the floor the other day (water softener overflowed and when I went to clear space around it, I knocked the case that the body was sitting on - just about cried - but the most noticeable ding is on the backside so you don'y notice it as much.

(slow mo) - NNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooo

I feel your pain mate. dropped and dinged my tele build the other day.

I use the plastic on my neck plates, but I guess it personal taste. For me its one less thing that can vibrate.

[peterh]

Started to tackle the squaring up of the neck and body this morning.
Got the neck clamped in place, squared up the front edge of the bridge with the back side of the bridge pup route (68mm back from the bridge pup cavity) and proceeded to string the two E strings to check for alignment.
It looks pretty even all the way along - both strings have about 4mm between the string and the edge of the fretboard at the nut and at the body. The neck does seem to get a bit wider around the 15th fret by a mm or so. At the widest point I measured 5.5mm between the string and the edge of the fretboard (roughly).
The bridge was set with saddles moved as far forward as the low E string saddle could go (the E/A saddle adjusting screw is shorter than the other two - the other screws have about 3mm of travel left to the end of the screw) which gave me 323mm to the middle of the 12th fret. This is the same measurement I got from the nut to the middle of the 12th fret. I think that I've got it right but before I drill any holes can you guys have a look at the pictures below and let me know if everything looks okay?



Next up is to put the copper shielding tape on. I assume in addition to all cavities, I should shield the back of the control plate as well? After that - time to tackle the electronics upgrades (pots/cap).

[Andy40]

Hi Peter,

On the home stretch now!

On my TLA-1R, Wokks told me to measure to the centre of the 12th fret wire, not the dot marker. Typically nut to 12th fret on an F type (scale 25.5") should be 323/324mm.

The control plate on a tele normally wouldn't normally be shielded as its metal, but yours is painted black. I know someone on the forum had a bit of difficulty in grounding their bridge because of the black paint and had to scratch a bit away. If you've got enough copper tape, sure, why not do it.

By the way, if you are using PBG switches and pots, you wont have a problem, but If you have upgraded swtiches etc they may short by touching the shielding. The control cavity rout usually needs to be widened and deepened to accommodate for this. But as I said if PBG stuff is used...no problemo.

Enjoy!

[peterh]

Thanks Andy,
I did measure to the 12th fret wire, not the dot but thanks for clarifying. I guess I'm good as long as I've got 323mm on both measurements for top and bottom E string? I've got to re-read that sticky post about intonation compensation (need more on the low strings?).
Everything is prewired to the control panel at the factory but I bought some Bourns mini 250K pots and orange drop cap to upgrade the ones that are built in. I'll have to do some measuring on that I guess. The way they soldered the cap on, it knocks against the side of the cavity anyways, so it's good that I'm replacing it - will have to make sure on where is goes though, so I don't end up with the same problem.