First time strat build

[wokkaboy]

coming along nicely Candice the colour is getting deeper.
With a custom headstock logo you can buy waterslide decal paper on ebay and print your own logo. Remember to put a clear coat over the logo before you soak it in water.
I generally put more clear coats over the logo once its been put on to protect it.
Another option is email Andyport from the forum has a sign business and can make you a nice vinyl logo so you don't see the clear backing paper. His email is citysigns at internode.on.net

[candice]

thank you, I'll give the waterslide decals a go, there seems to be clear ones on ebay.
Do I hold off on the top coat until I put the decal on or do it after and just apply another coat?

[wokkaboy]

Hi Candice, let the logo dry for a few hours after it's been printed. Then I applied a clear coat and let that dry at least 24 hours. Then cut as close to the logo edge as you can and soak it in water for a few mins, then it should slide off the backing paper. Takes a bit of practice so print a few spare logos. I run a damp cloth over to flatten the logo and get rid of any bubbles.
Then you can apply clear coats over the headstock and neck.
I apply the logo before any clear coats go on the headstock, so get your staining done then I apply it

[BenWA]

that looks awesome, subtle colour and contrasting pickguard, very cool

[stan]

love the semi gloss/satin sheen to the timber, very nice

[candice]

here's a mock up now that the staining is done.

I still need to add the decal to the headstock and then do the top coat on the neck and i need to get some fret oil too.
I've added a (poor) picture of what the fret markers are looking like at the moment. They're basically just drawn/printed on so I am not too sure what to do about that since I want to put in the abalone ones I got.
Also want to change to the bone nut I have however the bone nut I got only has the beginnings of the cut outs for the strings so I am not sure if I am meant to somehow make them deeper myself? Any idea of what tool would help me do that?

[Island_Moose]

You need a set of nut files:

As an example:

http://www.guitarparts.co.nz/tools/n...10-pieces.html

I bought a set from Japan that were considerably-cheaper.

I use a technique that involves determining the gap between the bottom of the strings and the top of the fretboard immediately adjacent the 2nd fret when you fret it, then using automotive feeler gauges as a guide back at the nut. It's not that hard. Bone nuts are cheap, buy a couple in case you screw up.

[dingobass]

Looking good!

With the dot markers, you will find they are plastic so all you need to do is drill through the centre with a 4mm bit then they should pop out with a scribe or even the bit you used to drill.
Then put a drop of super glue in the hole and press your Abalone dots in (assuming they are the same size as the existing ones)

Is your bone nut. PBG one? If so, the string slots will be deep enough. It may look like they are shallow when compared to the stock plastic one but they are cut correctly.
Typically, the low E, A and D strings should sit in the slots with at least 1/2 of the string diameter sitting higher than the top of the nut.
This is to eliminate any chance of 'nut buzz'.

When you instal the nut, the action may be too high.
Check this by stringing up the E srings and if it needs lowering simply sand the bottom of the nut, checking it for hight regulary until you get it to your preferred hight.
Then place a few drops of super glue in the slot and set he nut

[dingobass]

Excuse my splelling.... It is early here in Perth and I am only one coffee in!

[wokkaboy]

Candice the mock build looking good.
@ DB the spelling police will be hot on your tail !
There are cheaper nut files on the realparts website I got these
http://www.realparts.com.au/tools/nu...-3-pieces.html

As DB says the slots may be deep enough. Another method is using old wound guitar strings (E A D) as dental floss in the respective slots to lower the depth a bit