Strat au naturale (ST-1L) - First build, WIP

[west0288]

Yeah, I can understand your trepidation: once you start, you can't stop. :P

A mate of mine, AKA the forum's very own Nickosaurus was very successful with his design.

Marked it out first:



Rough cut with coping saw, well outside the lines:



Then 80 grit to shape:



After that you have the simple task of smoothing everything out, and sanding up to the appropriate grit for your finish. Viola.

[Timsan]

Basswood isn't as nasty as some people says it is. I'm finding out myself that it's full of surprises. That kit has come up really nicely - the grain actually looks like it has some depth in it. Good stuff!

Btw - Leftys rule!

[ozbird]

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

west0288 (& Nickosaurus): awesome! I haven't worked with maple before, so wasn't sure how much I could get away with.

Timsan: The surprises are hidden by the fluffy fibres - but lefties have had worse. ;-)

As a first build, I'm very pleased with it.

[dingobass]

There is some very nice figure going on in that body..
Basswood can be either really boring or nicely figured, it is a timber that can really surprise you.
I have put together a few kits that after sanding I have gone Meh... but as soon as the first coat went on I have thought Holy crap on a cracker! check out the figure in that!

It appears that you have scored a really nice kit, and I will be following this build with interest

[jarrod]

I agree DB , My SV-1 turned out to have some awsom grain in it too. But I'm looking forward to a super kit if you know what I mean

Dude you scored one mean bit of maple on that kneck and by the looks ya making us proud.. Looks dam stunning .
man look at that kneck 8O

[Nickosaurus]

Yo Bird, don't fret about cutting the 'stock out. With your coping saw it'll be easy. Make sure the blade is sharp an d don't get too close to the line. Also - watch the degree of bend in the blade when you're getting into the tighter turns on the shape or it'll snap (from experience...). I found large slice across the diameter of the shape followed by triangle cuts in the tight spots worked best.

Was a trip to see my photos posted without me... haha! The third pic was just before the final shaping (had a few flat spots). 80-120 grit was plenty to shape the maple - it's really not that hard.

How did you apply the tru-oil? Fingers + thin coats? I'm tempted after seeing your results man. Looks wicked.

[lawry]

Nice job on the headstock, Brodie. I remember the first time I shaped the maple I was pretty apprehensive too, but I think it sands really well.

[stan]

great start and another vote for lefties rule!

[ozbird]

I haven't done much since my 6 July update due to "curing time" (me - not the guitar. :-( )

I've cut back the Tru-Oil finish on the body with 0000 steel wool to remove surface marks etc.; it's now a lot smoother and thinner than before. (Unfortunately, basswood is a ding magnet.)

I still haven't figured out how to get a perfect, final coat with Tru-Oil - but I think I'm closer to it than before.

[gavinturner]

Hey ozbird,

Personally, once I am at your stage I start with a light wet-sand every 2 coats, starting at 800 grit then working through 1200, 1500 and 2000. I just sand smooth enough so that I dont go through the last layer of oil (ie. not much sanding at all), then clean the sanding residue off with metho before resuming the coats. It makes for a smoother and smoother finish as you go. You can do a couple of rounds of one grit before moving to the next depending on how your finish is looking.

Hope this helps.

cheers,
Gav.