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Thread: AJs TL-1

  1. #21
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    AJ, the reed switch and magnet should be at the outer edge of the bobbin. That way you keep the magnets from interfereing with the count.
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  2. #22
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Wow AJ, the finish on that Tele is immaculate. Well done.

    And a good job on those pickups. I wonder if Kinman started off the same way?

    rob

  3. #23
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    Hi AJ.
    I agree with Scott and Gavin. It would be much easier to modify the placement of your sensor.
    Also, you could try shielding the reed from the bobbin holder by attaching a thin piece of iron sheet to the outer face of it.
    This would act like a sort of keeper and short circuit the magnetic flux a bit (this is starting to sound like something off Back To The Future).
    I'm still happy to draw up a schematic for you but will need a bit more info about your counter if you want to go down that path.
    So, if you don't want to give the shielding or sensor placement options a go first, let me know.
    Cheers

  4. #24
    Mentor AJ's Avatar
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    /<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from lawry on November 16, 2013, 07:04
    Hi AJ.
    I agree with Scott and Gavin. It would be much easier to modify the placement of your sensor.
    Also, you could try shielding the reed from the bobbin holder by attaching a thin piece of iron sheet to the outer face of it.
    This would act like a sort of keeper and short circuit the magnetic flux a bit (this is starting to sound like something off Back To The Future).
    I'm still happy to draw up a schematic for you but will need a bit more info about your counter if you want to go down that path.
    So, if you don't want to give the shielding or sensor placement options a go first, let me know.
    Cheers
    I will try the moving of the reed sensor first also make a slightly larger mounting arm to assist in making the activating magnet further out. (the cheapest option).
    Just to clear up what I was thinking re the interrupter, I have drawn a rough idea circuit, what had me perplexed was the required resistors 1 an 2, and also what sort of micro relay or ic to use that is capable of operating in the mA range with it. The counter only needs to have it's circuit opened and closed to count as the rest of that magic happens within it's internal circuit.
    Projects:
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    TL-1Completed
    Yamaha rebuild: Completed
    Mako -Scratch designed: Completed
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  5. #25
    Mentor AJ's Avatar
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    excuse the rough drawing as windose paint makes it difficult to make a relay etc look correct...
    Projects:
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    TL1-A
    LP-1Completed
    TL-1Completed
    Yamaha rebuild: Completed
    Mako -Scratch designed: Completed
    PUP winder: Completed

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  6. #26
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    Hi AJ,
    I have had a bit of a search on the internet but can't find any specific data on your counter from the model number I can read on the front. However, the info I did glean says that it can use a switch or voltage input, so this is my suggestion as a first try if you want to pursue this line (it doesn't need a relay). Firstly, resistor R1 is needed to limit the current to the LED inside the opto device and stop it from blowing up. If you are using 5 Volts then a 150 Ohm 1/4 Watt resistor will be fine. As for the opto output, just connect it directly to the counter's input as shown because I think that the electronics inside the counter will be as I have drawn it (or similar). If it doesn't work just reverse the wires going into the counter. Also, the Jaycar data sheet doesn't actually say if the transistor in the opto device is NPN or PNP so I can't give you any more specifics there. With the voltages and currents associated with this setup I don't think anything is going to be destroyed if you connect it back to front. Note that the LED must be the correct way round of course or it won't trigger the phototransistor inside. Have fun!

  7. #27
    Mentor AJ's Avatar
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    Disaster strikes.. got a little impatient and put the guitar together to tryout the self wound pups.. well you guessed it... I dropped it. So had to strip off all the paint etc etc.. and tried the suggestion of Andy with the paste (watered down timber-mate, and I used a 50/50 ratio of water/metho to thin the timber-mate, it worked reasonably well). So for the interim, I have tried to stain it with golden teak with plain teak back and sides. Have 1 coat of clear on it now but if not completely happy will go back to shinny black. As for the pups, they sounded good to me, but then I am partly deaf..



    Projects:
    LP-1A
    TL1-A
    LP-1Completed
    TL-1Completed
    Yamaha rebuild: Completed
    Mako -Scratch designed: Completed
    PUP winder: Completed

    Facebook : www.facebook.com/andrew.johns.1272010
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  8. #28
    Mentor AJ's Avatar
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    Have a bug in the first coat..free loader.. (second picture)
    Projects:
    LP-1A
    TL1-A
    LP-1Completed
    TL-1Completed
    Yamaha rebuild: Completed
    Mako -Scratch designed: Completed
    PUP winder: Completed

    Facebook : www.facebook.com/andrew.johns.1272010
    Skype: andyjohns1

  9. #29
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    that looks awesome AJ, is this an alder body ? grain looks too nice for basswood. You have done well to strip it all back and get to this level so quickly. Was there much damage from dropping the body ?
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  10. #30
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    Hey AJ. The depth in your finish is brilliant. Looks like it's a centimeter deep. Beautiful.

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