ST-1 (Rhay)

[dingobass]

Yikes.... Tomorrow, can you post a good pic or two so I can see the offending item from a few angles?
I think I have a work around for you but I just need to see it more clearly.
Actually, could you email pics to me at dingobass@pitbullguitars.com please?

[rhay]

Yep, can do.

[rhay]

Here's some pics of the damage.

[adam]

Ray, if you think you have a faulty kit, we do have a pretty solid return policy. I can't quite tell how bad the problem is from the photos (considering you dropped it), but you shouldn't think that just because something costs $99 you have to accept something that's faulty. If you think you have received a product that shouldn't have left the factory or our warehouse, please say so and we will replace it.

[rhay]

Adam, thanks for the follow-up.

You probably remember I noticed the separation on delivery but thought it was superficial and (assuming a solid finish which would mask it) decided to accept the body.

As it turns out my cock-up has revealed that the flaw was much worse than I thought. Typically a knock like this shouldn't split the blocks - so there was definitely a risk of the body splitting sometime down the track.

I really appreciate your concern, however I will kick on with this one. Apart from anything else it will give us an opportunity to reinforce the veracity of BD's signature quote!

Really this event is probably a blessing in disguise. At least this way I can make a lasting repair then continue on with peace of mind.

In hindsight I probably should have done a twist and roll test on the suspect lamination in the first place - but no biggie.

I have sent some good pics to DB as well as onto the Thread, so I'm sure some good advice is on it's way.

[dingobass]

Copy of the email I sent to Ray this morning.

Hi Ray,

I think that your best bet is to get some medium viscosity superglue from Stewmac.

It will come with some whip tips with a very fine nozzle.
Flood the gap with as much glue as possible and clamp it.

Next up, if you have a router cut a slot to clean up the damaged ares and cut a blank to fill it.
Superglue this in then sand it back to the correct profile.

You should end up with a repair that is stronger than the original join..

[rhay]

Cheers DB, certainly sounds like a good solid fix.

As I have already told DB I may go with a quick and nasty fix on this one. I was never expecting much from this kit, it's more of a test-run for future projects.

However if this was a more serious project then I am pretty sure that the DB fix would be the go.

Either way I'll post pics of the works.

Thanks again DB! (by god this Forum is good)

[rhay]

Let me preface this post by saying that what I have chosen to do a quick and nasty repair. Applicable in this case because I am finishing in Enamel, not a stain, and can accept speed over durability.

I have just finished re-bonding the split lamination and secured it using a skew-screw method.

The process I followed;

1/. Used a clamp to close the join tight and hold it in its home position.
2/. Made a series of 3-stage "angle" holes to allow me to use screws to hold the join closed and secure.
3/. Released the clamp and gently separated the split.
4/. Blew a slightly thinned bonding glue into the spilt using compressed air - gently.
5/. Reapplied the clamp and screwed the join shut.

Once dry I will clean up the drill holes and split, then fill them. So in about 36 hours I will be back to where I started.....

Here are some pics of the completed repair and I diagram of the 3 stage holes.

[rhay]

Body is stalled, so onto the neck and shaping the headstock.

Typical to my M.O. this will be a replica guitar, pre-CBS 60's Strat in this case.

I have a set of '62 reissue plans, so I have printed out the head from them to use as a template.

I am a fan of the jigsaw, used one for a long time and have become pretty good with it. However I know a lot of people are not and with good reason; it is very easy to get in a lot of trouble, very quickly, with a Jigsaw.

So to protect the timber from bruising I tape off and then draw the outline on the tape. When I cut I always leave a good 2mm of meat, means more sanding but significantly reduces the risk of tears.

I shape down by hand with 80 grit paper and a cork block, occasionally rolling the paper onto dowel for concave section. I use P80 Norton T423, which is actually a metal-work product, but excellent for shaping or rough profiling (but way to rough for anything else). Using a combination of with and against the grain strokes, but always finishing on a few with the grain passes.

Next will be some fine sanding with 240, then 320, then a pad, then a lighter pad....sanding, sanding, sanding....

However that's it for tonight. I have just been told to "stop playing with that guitar and get ready for the gig!".

Yes dear.....

[Gavin1393]

Nice work Ray!