GlennGPs Tele #2 ("Tanias Red Menace")

[GlennGP]

Thanks mate, that process is pretty much what I had in mind as a contingency, so it's nice to have the approach endorsed.

[wokkaboy]

Quote from WeirdBits on May 1, 2013, 10:31

So, my advice is to mark where you want the bridge, then mark where the pickup needs to sit, then measure exactly how much (if any) needs to be shaved from the rout, check again, then start by removing a fraction of that and testing the fit. Advice I wish I'd followed

Scott, sounds like sound advice, I have never built a TL kit but small amounts of removal sounds like the best way. Once the wood has been removed................. it's removed for good !

Glenn can't wait to see this axe progress, I reckon carmine gypsy is one of the best wudtone colours

cheers Wokka

[GlennGP]

OK blokes, we're into sanding. The grain is coming up nicely and I've learned a thing or two about sanding a guitar body since I did the Yellow Peril. Got about 2 hours of good sanding in this evening, and I seem to have eliminated pretty much all scratches - just working at the cutaway now to remove the machining marks. Another evening and a bit should see me there. Then I just need to watch the post for that magic packet of Wudtone (which, I'm assured, is on it's way)!

All components bar the nut and pickups are now on hand, though Bill and Becky have confirmed despatch of the pups. All that remains is making the time to build this sucker.

[stui]

Tania is one lucky girl. Those Wilde Bill pickups are stupidly good. This is going to be an amazing sounding axe

[GlennGP]

I was also examining the CRL 3-way switch last night, and I have to say it confounded me.

I like to understand what I'm doing and how something works when I build it. I'm not satisfied just putting things together according to instructions. So I immediately noticed there's one more lug on the CRL switch than on the supplied one (8 vs 7), so I needed to know how to wire the thing to produce the required result. Now, there is a wiring diagram that comes with the CRL, and as long as you're holding the thing contacts down, it makes sense. Unfortunately one normally has the contacts facing you when you're working on these things, which means you have to think in mirror terms. Then I started looking closely at the contacts and what happens when you move the switch, and tried to relate that to the wiring diagram (in mirror-world) plus my understanding of what's supposed to happen as the switch is activated (neck at position one, both at position two, bridge at position three) ... and my mind just started dog-paddling and waving to the lifesaver on shore. I just couldn't fathom how the various combinations of contacts, with the wires connected as instructed, would produce the desired outcome. I think there are some connections hidden in the housing which might complete the picture for me. Anyway, I had to set the thing aside and just accept that if I wire it as instructed, it'll work. But I don't like not understanding it.

[phloggy]

Have you got a picture Glen? I've just googled for an image and they seem to make sense to me, but I can only see one side of them so it's tough to know what's happening on the other side.

It *looks* as though some of the lugs are just there because the same arrangement goes on 5 position switches as well and it's cheaper the produce them like that than a special 3 position one so you can just ignore them.

But like I say, I'm basing that on pictures on the internet.

[keloooe]

Glenn, the orientation of the switch shouldn't matter, as long as the wiring is done in the correct way, there's no actual orientation, you will have to test the pups to get the bridge position the right way!

[phloggy]

Is it one like this:

Because that picture also doesn't help me. Stupid housing.

[GlennGP]

Quote from phloggy on May 8, 2013, 14:41
Is it one like this:

Because that picture also doesn't help me. Stupid housing.

Yep, that's the one. I think you're right about the "extra" lugs. I'm ignoring them.

Calum, I know it doesn't make a difference which way it is wired up if you rotate it 180 degrees in the x-plane. My issue is that things get mirrored if you turn it 180 degrees in the z-plane. This is important when you're reading a wiring diagram which depicts the device from above as installed instead of from below, as one would normally be viewing it when wiring it up.

But, as I said, I'm not concerned that it won't work, it just frustrates me that I can't trace the signal route on the actual device to satisfy my tiny brain that the diagram does what I want.

[Gavin1393]

OK, remember that the Fender-type and import-type are functionally identical, they only differ in the physical layout of the contacts – this means the schematic is the same for both switches.

In my schematics, I’ve labelled the switched contacts 1, 3 and 5 to correspond to what Strat users would know as positions 1, 3 and 5 (or Bridge, Middle and Neck). Position 2 is actually where the switch wiper rests on both 1 and 3. Likewise, position 4 is where the wiper rests on both 3 and 5.

The best way of working out which contact is which is to use a multimeter and see for yourself which contacts are connected to each other in the 5 switch positions. On the Fender-type and some import-type switches you’re given a good clue because you can actually see the mechanism or see through the switch casing. Watch this as you move the switch through the 5 positions – you can see which contact is always in circuit (the wiper) and which ones are in circuit in each position (1, 2, 3, 4 and 5). This method of visualising the switch also helps when it comes to fitting the switch to your pickguard and getting it the right way around! Now, where does the wire from the bridge pickup go again…

Hopefully this all makes sense now! I’ve drawn out a diagram below showing how the contacts relate between the schematic representation and the Fender- and import-type switches. I’ve shaded the two parts (poles) of the switch red and blue: