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Thread: First Build - Aion Aurora 125B

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  1. #1
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woltz View Post
    If there are enough people on the forum that are here in Aus I was actually wondering about us doing a forum order to minimise shipping costs. Shipping time was around 4 weeks for mine.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    I would be interested in that, but we would have to make sure that local shipping to split the order doesn't erode the savings. For those in Canberra we could probably arrange something.
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  2. #2
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    Yeah shipping within the USA (including Hawaii, the 50th state) is relatively unaffected. I’m not making anymore international purchases (besides the second custom guitar I just ordered from Adam . )

    I still need the 6 (chips?) that should be arriving tomorrow from Mojotone.
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  3. #3
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    I hope the build goes well. And I am a little envious since I am still waiting on a bunch of op amps and other parts. It's been ages ...
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  4. #4
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    It’s going on 7 weeks for my initial PSH-1 order from Adam, if that makes you feel any better

    Thanks, I”m looking forward to getting started on this one. I don’t feel to anxious about soldering to the board, so I guess that’s good!

    Do I need to solder both sides of the board?
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Garfield View Post
    It’s going on 7 weeks for my initial PSH-1 order from Adam, if that makes you feel any better

    Thanks, I”m looking forward to getting started on this one. I don’t feel to anxious about soldering to the board, so I guess that’s good!

    Do I need to solder both sides of the board?
    Yes the pots, led, switch and footswitch are soldered to one side. Caps, resistors etc the other side. Doubt you'll have any issue following the build guide. I found Aion's instructions to be very clear.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Oh, thanks - so each component is only soldered at one side, right? That's what I mean - I know there are things like multi-layer boards that need solder on both sides for some components. I don't see anything in the instructions about this - there really aren't any instructions although there are some 'general build notes' in the documentation for the older Aurora.
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Garfield View Post
    Oh, thanks - so each component is only soldered at one side, right? That's what I mean - I know there are things like multi-layer boards that need solder on both sides for some components. I don't see anything in the instructions about this - there really aren't any instructions although there are some 'general build notes' in the documentation for the older Aurora.
    Oh right. Yes each component is only soldered on one side. Have a look at some of the pcb soldering videos on YouTube. It'll give you an idea of how to approach it. You may want to get something to clean the residual flux off the pcb as well after you've finished soldering.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    In general, you insert all components from the front of the board and solder at the back. On your board, the front is the side with all the component names screen-printed onto it (R10, C3, IC1 etc). But because your board is tinned through the holes, you will see solder flow right through the hole so it can look like the component was soldered from both sides. Here's a blurry (sorry!) photo of my Julius Squeezer board. On the germanium diode (top left) the effect of solder flowing through from the back is quite visible.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A good trick is to put a bit of tape (masking, electrical, doesn't matter) on the components after inserting them in the board so they stay put when you flip the board to solder. Although you can do multiple components at once this way, I prefer the slow and steady method of soldering 1 component at a time. Double check the component value, bend leads to right length, insert, double check placement, tape, flip, solder, inspect solder joins with magnified desk lamp. Then rinse and repeat. I also like to work from smaller components to larger, so the larger ones don't get in the way when inserting the smaller. So typically, resistors, diodes, small caps, sockets (ICs, transistors), large caps, and then pots and off-board wiring.

    These are all just my preferences, but I find being systematic helps prevent errors.
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  9. Liked by: Joe Garfield

  10. #9
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    Thanks guys! I think I saw Woltz's board with the solder wicking through so that's why I was asking.
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  11. #10
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    I really really want to build this pedal.........
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

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