TL-1L First build

[Twodogies]

Good work on the headstock, except you cut it backwards

As for neck finish, I've not used the Dingotone products at all so can't offer much advice on that.
However with maple fretboards it is generally standard practise to seal them. I don't know what the DT "final coat" consists of, but in the description of the Final Top-Coat it states: "It will give you a hard finish that protects the neck and provides a silky smooth neck feel when playing." So I presume it is some kind of polymerised finish. This is typically what is used on maple fretboards.

So with your other option: FW stain & wipe-on poly (presuming both oil-based) no problem. Also recommend doing both back and fb as mentioned above.

McCreed its backwards. Oh no. Can I glue the pieces back on and try again or just turn it around so it's right lol.

Thanks for your input. So confusing sometimes all this talk for a newbie on stains, poly, water based solvent based etc.

[Sonic Mountain]

Yeah, wait for the Wilkinson to drill holes as they are a bit different to the kit ones. You've picked the common issue with these kits. You can assemble as is and it works fine, but you can also absolutely enlarge the bridge cavity and move the whole thing forward to close up that gap without any dramas, there is enough adjustment on the screws to take it up.

You can see me going through the same process in this first TL build I did

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8005

Oh also, I wouldn't be using the center fret markers as any kind of guide. The High and Low E string is the best way to make sure everything is running true.

[Twodogies]

Yeah, wait for the Wilkinson to drill holes as they are a bit different to the kit ones. You've picked the common issue with these kits. You can assemble as is and it works fine, but you can also absolutely enlarge the bridge cavity and move the whole thing forward to close up that gap without any dramas, there is enough adjustment on the screws to take it up.

You can see me going through the same process in this first TL build I did

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8005

Oh also, I wouldn't be using the center fret markers as any kind of guide. The High and Low E string is the best way to make sure everything is running true.

Hey Sonic.

Good advice. Think I am going to wait. Had to route a bit our for the old fender pickup so hopefully haven't done too much damage using the different bridge plate.

Thanks for link. Beautiful build. Yep exactly what I am going through lol. Hopefully my bridge plate lines up neat as yours.

Also was just thinking. The string i used to line it up is brickies string which is pretty thick, a lot thicker than a high E string so I may have room to move there as well.

Thanks for your help.

[king casey]

The Wilkinson is a Telecaster bridge and the one on the kit is a Squier.


Cheers, Mark.

[Twodogies]

The Wilkinson is a Telecaster bridge and the one on the kit is a Squier.


Cheers, Mark.

Arvo Mark.
Thanks for that pic. Shit big difference. Didn't even realise the difference when I bought it. Glad I didn't drill any holes before I asked for advice.

Thanks mate much appreciated

[Simon Barden]

There should be a gap of about 5mm between the front of the bridge and the pickguard, so you don't need to move it forward much at all, maybe 2mm maximum.

Here's the gap on one of my Fender Teles (I measured it at 5.25mm).

[Sonic Mountain]

I think it’s more about getting the gap even all the way around the bridge. The opening in the kit pick guard isn’t as wide as that, so a 5mm gap will still look off. I think I ended up with around 3mm all the way around in the build I posted earlier.

[Twodogies]

I think it’s more about getting the gap even all the way around the bridge. The opening in the kit pick guard isn’t as wide as that, so a 5mm gap will still look off. I think I ended up with around 3mm all the way around in the build I posted earlier.

Hi Sonic.

I am actually waiting on a new pickguard so hopefully that will make a bit of difference or if my OCD gets to bad might just try and make a pickguard from scratch and make it a nice fit

[Simon Barden]

I don't think you'll even have 2mm at the sides with that particular pickguard. Though it depends on the dimensions of the Wilkinson. The less you need to move it forwards, the less work you'll have to do enlarging the pickup rout.

Twodogies, I presume you did buy a left-handed Wilkinson bridge? I'm sure you did, but I just thought I'd ask as the pickup hole will slant the other way compared to a right-handed bridge.

[Twodogies]

I don't think you'll even have 2mm at the sides with that particular pickguard. Though it depends on the dimensions of the Wilkinson. The less you need to move it forwards, the less work you'll have to do enlarging the pickup rout.

Twodogies, I presume you did buy a left-handed Wilkinson bridge? I'm sure you did, but I just thought I'd ask as the pickup hole will slant the other way compared to a right-handed bridge.

Arvo Simon.

Yes made sure it is left handed. Sourcing decent lefty parts is hard in Aus. Usually out of stock.Waiting on parts from UK and the US sure slows builds.

Like the Wilkinson bridge. Aus was out of stock so ordered it from UK then found the Aus supplier had back in stock so ordered an allparts bridge from them.

So if anyone wants a new wilkinson lefty bridge for a tele I will have one going cheap lol ..or maybe just have to do another tele build later.