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Thread: The PBG B46.....Behemoth bass and guitar kit.

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  1. #1
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    The necks and the body now have been recoated with stain to a point I like. They have all now been coated twice with thin layers of wipe on polyurethane now. The repairs have disappeared into the surrounding colours....looks good to me. Waz...it is still what I was looking for....black over the top of everything and blue poking through in places on the body and the edges....faded look really....not blue...not black.

    Casualities of re-masking the headstock face to prevent blue colour coming over.....has been the water decals have come free. How...they were under a number of coats of POLY?

    Maybe as you said Waz...they are thinner than we think.

    Well I have more laser decal paper and my colour laser printer sits waiting. I may have to work on this. How do I affix water slide decals and then cover them so they don't come loose again? In the past I have just put the decals on...and then made sure I put at least three coats of poly over the top. Maybe that is not enough.

  2. #2
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Hi Ozzie, print the decal larger than headstock size with lots of clear background and trim it back once dry. You can then put plenty of coats over the top and it should stay put.
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  3. #3
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    The wiring begins.

    Whilst the body and necks move forward with the finishing that I keep making ungood. (Sad Face insert here....)

    I dug out my bits and using the cardboard divider from a 30 pack of Pepsi Max...recycling....I made a template for the pots, jack, switches for this little girl.

    Using this wiring diagram.....thank you again Weirdy....

    I began make runs of black for earth and white for active with vintage push back wire. I got the pots soldered up with caps in place.

    Then I looked at the switches....the three position switch is no hassle....easy....and yes I only pushed the wires into it as the switch is not in the control cavity.

    Now this big number....the SPECIAL $60 switch is a challenge. Weirdy, or anybody got any ideas how I attack this behemoth? Am I missing something....as the bits poking out look like sockets or joiners of some description...is there some way to attach wires to this in a different manner I am missing? The white vintage wire is to give you an idea how small these sockets/pins are....amazing...and like WOW man.

    All advice muchly and happily received. Thank You.
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  4. #4
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Ozz, what sort of switch is this ? looks like there could be a plug that you solder to that plugs into the sockets. Will the wire strands push into one of the sockets ? I've never seen a switch like that so might have to wait for Weirdy to chime in. Who supplied the switch can you email/call them in the meantime ?
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  5. #5
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hey Ozz, what sort of switch is this ? looks like there could be a plug that you solder to that plugs into the sockets. Will the wire strands push into one of the sockets ? I've never seen a switch like that so might have to wait for Weirdy to chime in. Who supplied the switch can you email/call them in the meantime ?
    Woks it is one recommended to me way earlier in this thread. I got it from the USA.

    The connectors....12 of them....don't unscrew....and are quite small.....check Weirdys diagram and you will see I have to double up on a few of the pins.

    At $60 I am a little worried that I will kill it. 😎

  6. #6
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    This seems to be one of those cases where the vintage wire may be too thick and you may need to use some thinner wire for the connections to the switch. You are meant to stick the wire in the hole, then solder it in. It does look like you are using multi-strand wire, rather than single core, so if all the strands won't push in, then you may need to unpick the ends of the wire to thin it out a bit, cut off a few strands and poke the rest in.

    A light tin of the wire end will help keep the strands together when you push them in - but don't add too much solder as you'll make the end too thick to fit again.

  7. #7
    Mentor vh2580's Avatar
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    Oz you may find that that wire will fit. Vintage wire is generally tinned already so you may not need to tin again. As the joints across the two pins are connectors you can either go to smaller wire to make connections or fill the outer( or inner dependant on preference) of the connections carefully with solder so is full. Strip the wire long enough that it will go in one hole and bend across to the solder filled hole. Solder the wire into the pin then across the top of the filled pin.
    Tony

  8. #8
    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vh2580 View Post
    Oz you may find that that wire will fit. Vintage wire is generally tinned already so you may not need to tin again. As the joints across the two pins are connectors you can either go to smaller wire to make connections or fill the outer( or inner dependant on preference) of the connections carefully with solder so is full. Strip the wire long enough that it will go in one hole and bend across to the solder filled hole. Solder the wire into the pin then across the top of the filled pin.
    VH you are a King amongst men. I shall try it tomorrow....can I use the trimmed off leads from the capacitors to make the jumpers....they are a soft metal. 😎

  9. #9
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    At least on the outer pins, you could probably also wrap the wire round a post once, solder it, then cut the excess end of wire off.

  10. #10
    Yep, what they said. Take your time, tin you wires and don't cook it.

    Make sure you get the orientation of the switch correct for the wiring. Ideally, you'll need to check it with a multimeter just be be sure. In the middle position one side will have the inner pins connecting to the middle pins, and the other side will have the outer pins. That way you can match it up with they wire connections in the diagram.
    Scott.

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