NON-PBG - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

[Alkay]

Cheers Stan. A bit costly but I guess its the same old story you grt what you pay for.

Good news. I ran a length of cable through the body and grounded it in all cavities to the conductive shielding paint with with copper shielding tape. The electric background noise is reduced quite allot.

Cheers,
Alkay.

[Alkay]

I'll post some pics and a sound clip for this guitar soon when I get the notched straight edge from pabs. Not much more I can do with it at the moment but really happy with it for a second build.

The conductive shielding paint is good stuff.

Cheers alkay.

[wazkelly]

Good to hear that the shielding paint is doing it's job.

I just had both the Explorers opened up on the weekend whilst rewiring the Bass and took the opportunity to snail tape the control cavities as an extra precaution as the 6 stringer did have a small amount of buzzing that was only heard when playing through headphones via the amp. Didn't bother with the PUP cavities as the paint was doing it's job there and from the single coil builds I found that most of their noise was coming from under the control plate too.

[Alkay]

Good to hear that the shielding paint is doing it's job.

I just had both the Explorers opened up on the weekend whilst rewiring the Bass and took the opportunity to snail tape the control cavities as an extra precaution as the 6 stringer did have a small amount of buzzing that was only heard when playing through headphones via the amp. Didn't bother with the PUP cavities as the paint was doing it's job there and from the single coil builds I found that most of their noise was coming from under the control plate too.

Ok cool. Thanks waz, so it seems like we need to be using both the paint and the copper tape.

I didn't put any copper in any cavities because I thought the paint would do the job.

Next time should I do copper for the control cavities and just do the paint for the PUPS?

Cheers,

Alkay.

[wazkelly]

Hi Mate, Correct assumption. The paint worked OK on the Bass but not so sure on the guitar and as an additional precaution used the copper tape in the control cavity and recommend doing the same just in case any unwanted noise creeps in. Under the PUP's the paint seems to be working just fine.

[Alkay]

Hi Mate, Correct assumption. The paint worked OK on the Bass but not so sure on the guitar and as an additional precaution used the copper tape in the control cavity and recommend doing the same just in case any unwanted noise creeps in. Under the PUP's the paint seems to be working just fine.

Cheers mate I'll keep that in mind doing this current build you are helping me with too.

Hope to get the intonation fixed soon.

Anyway everyone....here is an update.

[wazkelly]

Nice & shiny. How does it sound through the micro Marshall Stack?

[Alkay]

Nice & shiny. How does it sound through the micro Marshall Stack?

Hahaha I use it to test the PUPs once everything is soldered.

My main amp is a Line 6 75W Spider IV with the MKII Footboard and a Korg AX1000G. That amp cranks..it's good I'm on property hahaha.

I'm waiting on the notched straight edge from pabs so I can fix the intonation on it. She sounds nice though but a bit of fret buzz going on.

Have to get the neck straight and see where I'm at with the nut height.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[Alkay]

Hi everyone,

I received the notched straight edge from pabs and awesome job.

The neck is now straight. A few minor truss rod adjustments clockwise straightened the neck.

Ive been following the intonation guide but I think I need to address the fret buzzing issues first.

I have indicated below the frets buzzing with E being lowest pitch closest to chin in a normal playing position:


e. 5, 6, 14-18
b. 12, 14
g. 14-22
d. 4-22
a. Open-22
E. No buzz

I appreciate any help. If I raise bridge height could that fix it but also stuffing up the action?

Cheers,
alkay

[wazkelly]

Hi Alkay. Dead flat neck is a good place to start and then play each note on each string all the way to the top to see where it starts buzzing by touching nearby frets. This would indicate that particular string is bit low. Presume this is what you have mapped out above?

From your measurements and the fact it is a Gibson style Tune-a-matic bridge I reckon you need to gradually raise the 'Chin' low E side up a small amount at a time and keep on re-checking until you eliminate most, if not all of the fret buzzing. If you end up going a fair amount higher and still have some buzzing that could indicate other issues (let's hope not just for now).

Should mention that once you get the bridge height just about right to re-check intonation as that will most likely need a bit of adjustment too. Don't forget to also keep checking the high E string to make sure other adjustments haven't had an adverse effect.