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Thread: NON-PBG - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

  1. #221
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    A straight edge across the frets tells you if the frets are level, not necessarily the neck - a notched straight edge will show if it's the neck.
    A rocking motion can be caused by back bow or high or low frets, but yes sounds like you have back bow to a degree
    You need to loosen the truss rod a tad ; from the nut looking towards the bridge turn the truss rod Anti clockwise by a small amount, this will loosen the rod a bit.
    The rod has the most effect in the centre section of the neck, - give it a try and see how you go, go 1/4vturn at a time and you will be fine, even if you get it wrong, then just go back

  2. #222
    Quote Originally Posted by stan View Post
    A straight edge across the frets tells you if the frets are level, not necessarily the neck - a notched straight edge will show if it's the neck.
    A rocking motion can be caused by back bow or high or low frets, but yes sounds like you have back bow to a degree
    You need to loosen the truss rod a tad ; from the nut looking towards the bridge turn the truss rod Anti clockwise by a small amount, this will loosen the rod a bit.
    The rod has the most effect in the centre section of the neck, - give it a try and see how you go, go 1/4vturn at a time and you will be fine, even if you get it wrong, then just go back
    Hi Stan,

    Thanks for the reply, so I was wrong. Turning left reduces the amount of back bow.

    Is a cheap notched straight edge on ebay($20-$25) suitable?

    Is anyone on here using these or should I just pay for a decent one from stewmac's site for example?

    It doesn't look like PBG sell a notched straight edge but I would at least like to buy locally in Australia if I can.

    Cheers,

    Alkay.

  3. #223
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    Pabs makes em shoot him a mesage, cheaper than Stewmac and supporting a local
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  4. #224
    Quote Originally Posted by Dedman View Post
    Pabs makes em shoot him a mesage, cheaper than Stewmac and supporting a local
    Cheers Dedman, will do.

    I'd like to make this playable haha.

  5. #225
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alkay View Post
    Hi Stan,

    Thanks for the reply, so I was wrong. Turning left reduces the amount of back bow.

    Is a cheap notched straight edge on ebay($20-$25) suitable?

    Is anyone on here using these or should I just pay for a decent one from stewmac's site for example?

    It doesn't look like PBG sell a notched straight edge but I would at least like to buy locally in Australia if I can.

    Cheers,

    Alkay.
    yes, correct.
    turning clockwise tightens the truss rod, causing it to induce what you call back bow
    anti clockwise loosens the rod - front bow
    Pabs makes great notched straight edges - i have a couple in different scale lengths
    Another super cheap option is to buy a steel ruler and notch out where the frets are, will work fine, but hit up Pabs, they are cheap and awesome

  6. #226
    Ok so I did some adjustments to the truss rod anti clockwise and it has made a slight difference. I can play open chords with a "little" more ease but it is nowhere near as good as my Ibanez and still requires a decent amount of pressure to do an open chord.

    I understand now that the frets are not the determining factor for how straight the neck is now so thanks fellas. It makes sense because if they aren't seated well in the fretboard then it will definately won't correspond to the straightness of the neck.

    Just ordered a notched straight edge from Pabs that does G and F brand scale lengths so I'm really looking forward to this.

    I have neck buzz up on the higher frets on most strings and would like the action lower like my Ibanez.

    Not sure if there is anything else I can do while I am waiting for the notched straight edge to arrive?

    I would still like to play it and get rid of some noise interference?


    Cheers,

    Alkay.

  7. #227
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    great move on the straight edge.
    sort the neck first, get it right then adjust any hardware.
    Perhaps it needs more adjustment. even though it's not 100% accurate, you can still use the straight edge as you were and see how level you can get things

  8. #228
    Quote Originally Posted by stan View Post
    great move on the straight edge.
    sort the neck first, get it right then adjust any hardware.
    Perhaps it needs more adjustment. even though it's not 100% accurate, you can still use the straight edge as you were and see how level you can get things
    Ok great thanks Stan.

    I think I need some fret leveling and crowning tools too.

    Anybody got some advice on what to purchase and preferably local?

    Cheers,

    Alkay.

  9. #229
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Hi Alkay, looks like some of the other guys helped you out with great advice and tips today.

    Curious about your comments that it takes a decent amount of pressure to do an open chord? That sounds like ultra heavy gauge strings or possibly over tightened and therefore tuned past 440hz pitch?

    I have 9-42 on the EX-1 and 10-46 on the Slash epi LP where the lighter ones I am more used to and feel more comfortable with and the 10's do take just a little bit more effort but the trade off is a much more mellow tone. Seems to reason that 10's on 24.75' scaled Gibbos is the go whilst you can get away with 9's on 25.5' scaled Fenders as they require just a bit more tension to tune up.
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  10. #230
    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    Hi Alkay, looks like some of the other guys helped you out with great advice and tips today.

    Curious about your comments that it takes a decent amount of pressure to do an open chord? That sounds like ultra heavy gauge strings or possibly over tightened and therefore tuned past 440hz pitch?

    I have 9-42 on the EX-1 and 10-46 on the Slash epi LP where the lighter ones I am more used to and feel more comfortable with and the 10's do take just a little bit more effort but the trade off is a much more mellow tone. Seems to reason that 10's on 24.75' scaled Gibbos is the go whilst you can get away with 9's on 25.5' scaled Fenders as they require just a bit more tension to tune up.
    Hi waz,

    Yes I got some great advice and learned a few more things from them.

    The guitar is tuned correctly at the right Hz pitch on each string. Like you I am using 9-42 gauge but an open chord requires a fair amount of pressure compared to my Ibanez.

    If I do an open C chord the C note I'm hitting on the B string, 1st fret with my index finger buzzes on the open G string. I don't have this issue on my Ibanez.

    If I sand more off the base of the nut I will definately get buzzing on the first fret with the other strings low E, A, D.

    Maybe the G string is sitting too high in the nut slot?

    Cheers,

    Alkay.

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