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Thread: FrankenWashie's Second PBG Build, SV-1

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  1. #1
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonScott View Post
    Ah ok, good to know! I’ll keep an eye on this thread to see how it turns out.
    I would probably hesitate to use the Rustoleum Clear again, it seems a bit delicate. I noticed when mounting the strap buttons and clearing the cover plate screw holes that it chipped quite easily. Similar story with the recessed trem spring cover plate edges.
    I will chase down a more durable clear for the next one (Cabothane has come up a few times in threads, and there is always Automotive stuff)
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    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    I would probably hesitate to use the Rustoleum Clear again, it seems a bit delicate. I noticed when mounting the strap buttons and clearing the cover plate screw holes that it chipped quite easily. Similar story with the recessed trem spring cover plate edges.
    I will chase down a more durable clear for the next one (Cabothane has come up a few times in threads, and there is always Automotive stuff)
    I agree re the rustoleum clear, the colours are great but the clear seems to stay soft for longer. The Cabothane I think you will like. I'd not use the automotive stuff over enamel as horrid things can happen.

  4. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyxlh View Post
    I agree re the rustoleum clear, the colours are great but the clear seems to stay soft for longer. The Cabothane I think you will like. I'd not use the automotive stuff over enamel as horrid things can happen.
    IF I went Automotive stuff it would be the whole shooting match. Base coats, colours and topcoats, that way you should have no problems with compatability etc.
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  5. #4
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    IF I went Automotive stuff it would be the whole shooting match. Base coats, colours and topcoats, that way you should have no problems with compatability etc.
    Agreed. You certainly get a bigger range of colours!

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    Member Spychocyco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    I would probably hesitate to use the Rustoleum Clear again, it seems a bit delicate. I noticed when mounting the strap buttons and clearing the cover plate screw holes that it chipped quite easily. Similar story with the recessed trem spring cover plate edges.
    I will chase down a more durable clear for the next one (Cabothane has come up a few times in threads, and there is always Automotive stuff)
    I used the Rustoleum 2X clear on my JK-1, and it definitely took longer to cure. After hanging for about a month, it was still a little soft and gummy. It was enough to worry me because it should have been cured by then. I checked on it about a week later, though, and all was good. There are some not-so-great areas on the guitar, but that was more my fault and inexperience than the clearcoat. I've seen some disaster stories about mixing and matching types of paint and even brands, which is the main reason I went with the Rustoleum, because they made the type of paint I wanted. I'd be hesitant to mix and match, though.

  7. #6
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spychocyco View Post
    I used the Rustoleum 2X clear on my JK-1, and it definitely took longer to cure. After hanging for about a month, it was still a little soft and gummy. It was enough to worry me because it should have been cured by then. I checked on it about a week later, though, and all was good. There are some not-so-great areas on the guitar, but that was more my fault and inexperience than the clearcoat. I've seen some disaster stories about mixing and matching types of paint and even brands, which is the main reason I went with the Rustoleum, because they made the type of paint I wanted. I'd be hesitant to mix and match, though.
    Agreed especially re the clear drying time. I have used the Cabothane clear over rustoleum with no problems, they are both oil based which helps.

  8. #7
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Froyd Lose knock off trems suck. I am fiddling and faddling with this sumbeech and he no play nice. Get the strings up to pitch and the whole trem rises up at an unacceptable angle. If I try to tighten the spring claw it is almost as if the springs are not up to scratch as they cannot counter the string pull. I’m going to add a couple of springs and see if it makes a difference.

    I had none of these issues with the genuine FR on the FrankenWashie. That thing is solid as a rock even with whammy abuse, this I kit one is .....less than optimal.
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  9. #8
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Well it is more or less, for a given value of done, done.

    It plays well. The neck feels great under hand and as a bonus the fretboard hasn’t fallen off under string tension. Yet.



    The Froyd Lose trem is a pig. It took Five springs to counteract the string pull, and I’ve only strung it with the kit 9-42 set.

    My norm is somewhere north of 10-52, so crap knows how this is going to deal with that.
    As soon as budget allows I think the trem may be getting swapped out for a Genuine FR.


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  11. #9
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    You could try a f r special, they are a lot better than the knock offs and only about 80 dollars. They will also accept a brass block and have a steel locking nut.
    I found the Allen screws are way too soft and the heads strip on the copies, as well as the locking nut stripping threads.
    I haven't had your problem with the knock off which is still on my SV1, have you got any spare springs from old kits to swap out for the ones you have on there?

  12. #10
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyxlh View Post
    You could try a f r special, they are a lot better than the knock offs and only about 80 dollars. They will also accept a brass block and have a steel locking nut.
    I found the Allen screws are way too soft and the heads strip on the copies, as well as the locking nut stripping threads.
    I haven't had your problem with the knock off which is still on my SV1, have you got any spare springs from old kits to swap out for the ones you have on there?
    i had a couple of spare Froyds, as I needed to get another for the IB-Freebie, so I had a selection of springs to choose from. The two I fitted seemed tighter coiled than the three originals so we’ll let it shift and settle and see where it ends up.
    you are right about the Allen screws, though I have a fairly good supply of spares. I will hunt around for a FR at a good price, as I posted before, the FR on my FrankenWashie is solid and unyielding, far better, though it cost more than the SV kit.
    FrankenLab:
    Turning tone wood into expensive sawdust since 2016!


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