NON-PBG - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

[Alkay]

Hi everyone,

Thank you ALL for the great advice. I did the following:

Wet sanded with 1500 and 2000.
Micro mesh pads and wet sanded all the way up to 12000.
Polished with Meguiars ultimate compound.
Applied two coats of conductive shielding paint to all the cavities.

I am reading around 4-5 ohms on the multimeter?

Here are a couple of images.











Cheers,

Alkay.

[wazkelly]

Good to see things progressing Alkay.

[Alkay]

Good to see things progressing Alkay.

Thanks wazkelly. Yes, it took sooo long to wet sand and polish but it looks really good now.

Once it's build I'll try take some photos with a better camera so the shine is more visible.

I think I might attempt soldering tonight. This is where my first kit build failed.

If anyone knows of a good wiring video for a LP they would like to share with me it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[Andy40]

jinx! I just wired up another LP copy I had literally today.

I thought about doing a video at the time but my phone ran out of batteries, so I didn't...sorry.

I just followed the tonerider wiring instructions.

[Alkay]

jinx! I just wired up another LP copy I had literally today.

I thought about doing a video at the time but my phone ran out of batteries, so I didn't...sorry.

I just followed the tonerider wiring instructions.

Hahaha cheers Andy. Probably best I didn't get a lotto ticket today either

I'll try and find tonerider wiring instructions. This kit is a NON PBG kit. I got it from diyguitars before they closed down. They still have the wiring diagram on their website in the forum section. I'm finding it difficult to follow and there seems to be many ways of wiring these LP's. If you'd like to check it out and let me know if it's the same as your I'd appreciate it.

PBG do a good wiring video too but I'm just not sure which is the correct/preferred way.

Cheers,
Alkay.

[Andy40]

No worries Alkay.

The steps I take are as follows:-

1. create a cardboard or plastic mock board of the holes for the pots, remember when the pots are upside down the neck and bridge post are opposite to the front of the guitar playing position.

2. mount the pots on the mock board earth the lug on the volume pots first, wire up the capacitors between the volume and tone pots, then wire up the earth wires to the back of each pot. If you are going to put in a treble bleed system, I usually do it at that point.

3. wire up the earth wire from the stoptail bushing to the control cavity;

4. Before you put in the humbuckers, measure out the length of the four wires running from the switch through the guitar to the control cavity, remember one is longer than the others as it has to run to the output jack. I uually make each wire about an inch longer than necessary to give me some "play". If you are using plastic wiring I use four different colour wires but if you are using vintage push back wiring, I use a nikko to put black bands on each end of the wires so I can identify them. ie one band on one wire, two bands on the next, three bands on the next and so on. I then solder each wire to the switch and make a "legend" as to what number band of wire goes where. Put the switch in and feed the four wires through the channel in the guitar right to the control cavity.

5. Mount the neck humbucker with the screw poles toward the neck and feed the wires through to the control cavity. Put tape around the end as a tag and write "neck" or "N" on it. then Mount the bridge humbucker with he screw poles towards the stoptail and feed the wires through to the control cavity.

6. put the mock board over the control cavity but mimicking the correct placement for the pots and solder the neck pickup to the neck volume pot correctly then do the same for the bridge pick up. Then solder the three wires from the switch that go to the pots.

7. solder the earth wire from the stoptail bushing to the back of a pot and also solder the earth wire for the jack to the back of a pot;

8. take the pots out of the mock board and install them into the guitar.

9. pass the hot wire running from the switch through the control cavity and out the jack hole and do the same for the earth wire for the jack hole from the back of one of the pots. then solder up the jack to the hot and earth wires and mount the jack into the guitar.

plug it in and test the switch, volume and tone in each position.

If it works....high five yourself. If it doesn't......... tell Weirdy what happens.

[Alkay]

Andy,

Thank you for the very detailed instructions. I'll see if your method is the same as the PBG video guide. I haven't looked at it for months.

I have a hook up wiring kit from the major blue coloured electronics store. Would this be suitable for guitar wiring?

Cheers,

Alkay.

[wazkelly]

Tonerider wiring diagram as found on PBG site and also inside the PUP box if you spend the coin and buy some.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con.../Humbucker.pdf

Take it nice & easy and this should have you making seriously good noises in no time at all.

[Alkay]

Tonerider wiring diagram as found on PBG site and also inside the PUP box if you spend the coin and buy some.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con.../Humbucker.pdf

Take it nice & easy and this should have you making seriously good noises in no time at all.

Thanks Andy40 and wazkelly for the help. I really hope she is going to make some nice sounds instead of a thump with sticks haha.

Sorry but this is where I am stuck. I really appreciate your help and hope you understand why I'm confused. I'll try to explain...

I'm confused with the wiring. I have 2 humbuckers, 4 pots, 3 way switch. I have not soldered or wired yet

-Applied conductive shielding paint in all cavities with two coats reading around 4-5 ohms on each cavity as an average.
-NOT put the wire in the bridge post stop tail cavity for grounding yet to one of the pots on in the control cavity. Should I do this?

The PBG wiring video and diagram for a LP-1 has the capacitors attached directly to the neck and bridge tone pots on the left contact point and grounded on top. I watched the videos and when Adam tested the PUPS in each three positions of the PUP selecter it worked. I believe that was in part two but here are the LP-1 video locations which I'm sure you are aware of: http://www.pitbullguitars.com/videos/

The pdf you both recommended has the capacitors in between the pots which looks like from NeckVol to NeckTone and then BV to BT. So it's different and that's why I'm confused.

Or should I just follow the pdf you blokes suggested but with or without grounding the bridge?

Also is there a difference between using A500k's and B500k's for the pots in regards to volume and tone?

I am happy to purchase quality hardware when it's working but for me it's best to get the wiring working with the existing hardware that came with this kit. Then I'll make her do some nice noisy tunes haha.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[Andy40]

Ill do my best Alkay to answer you questions but I am no expert.

1. I dont use sheilding paint but I believe Waz has/does;

2. You should put the wire in the bridge post stop tail cavity for grounding and let it rest in the control cavity till you are ready to solder it. This has got to be done before you push the stop tail bushing into the post hole otherwise its going to be difficult, the circuit must be grounded to the either the stop tail or the saddles or it will buzz. Interestingly this ground wire is not in the tonerider diagram.

2. Placement of capacitors is really your choice. nothing wrong with either way, I just prefer to put my caps between the volume and tone pots. Caps are not polarised, so it doesn't matter which way around you solder them.

3. A500k pots are audio taper pots and B500k Pots are linear taper pots. The difference is that there is audio taper pots roll on and off gradually whereas linear taper pots roll on and off very quickly. I prefer A500k for all volume and tone pots as I prefer the finer control for both volume and tone.