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Thread: Thinline TL-1TB

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  1. #1
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    Thanks Sonic! I will give that a go.

  2. #2
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    As requested, an update on the relative size of my nuts :

    Original plastic nut:
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    New Bone Nut:
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    Nut Slot:
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    The plastic nut, when glued in place, was fine. The bone nut is .3 of a mm too narrow, and so it flops around quite a lot in the slot.

  3. #3
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    Hi Guys,

    Some images to show progress:

    Headstock Carve:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Neck height adjustment:
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    Switch cavity route:
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    Deeper pickup route, dowelled holes from TOM bridge:
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    New hole for ground wire to bridge (drilled via the jack cavity):
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  4. #4
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Doing a really tidy job there Shambrick, looking good!
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  5. #5
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    Thanks Sonic.

    Gents, I have another technical question. AS you can see from teh images in my previous post, I have removed the plastic nut to replace with a new bone nut, supplied with the kit.

    I have discovered that the new bone nut is considerably thinner than the original, and so it is very loose in the nut slot.

    Should I source a replacement nut from Pitbull or can I shim it on the headstock side?

  6. #6
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Hmm, that's an unusual problem. I normally find the graphtech ones I use a little snug and sand them down a bit.

    I don't see any problem with a shim on the head stock side. Can we see a pic of it in the slot, just out of curiosity?
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  7. #7
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    Thanks Sonic,

    Sure - I'll take a couple tonight and get out my callipers so that I can share accurate dimensions.

  8. #8
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    You can use a few different styles, but it is not uncommon to retain the Tele bridge and remove some of the plate for string clearance from the trem. I guess it keeps it more in the style of the Tele guitars with the bridge pickup in the ashtray. There is that cavity for the pickup to take into consideration if you went to something like a TOM roller.

    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    You can use a few different styles, but it is not uncommon to retain the Tele bridge and remove some of the plate for string clearance from the trem. I guess it keeps it more in the style of the Tele guitars with the bridge pickup in the ashtray. There is that cavity for the pickup to take into consideration if you went to something like a TOM roller.

    Nice guitar!

  10. #10
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Yeah that’s a combination of slightly too big slot and slightly too thin nut. Theoretically it should be 3mm. A small shim should do it. You can find out what the fret measurement should be using the stew Mac fret calculator, that will tell you if you should shim in front or behind the nut.

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