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Thread: Project #4, Cork Sniffer

  1. #11
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cork sniffer View Post
    Funny how interests / hobbies can take hold. When I took up with Mrs Cork Sniffer back in 1969 she was 16 and could knock out popular tunes of the day on her acoustic, I listened but hobby wise did other things. Move forward to about 1992, our son took guitar up and as kids do he became proficient quickly. It wasn't until 3 or 4 years ago that THIS old man decided to join the (guitar) family. Old men take for ever to gain the most modest playing skills :-(
    Photo, her favourite guitar 1980 620/12 taken the day my boy got his 2017.

    Attachment 26787
    Oh my, those sneaky 12 headstocks, the 620/12 is the only Rick I’ve ever wanted. Much envy..
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  2. #12
    Member cork sniffer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    the 620/12 is the only Rick I’ve ever wanted. Much envy..
    If you ever get one get a newer one with the slots cut all of the way through the headstock. Changing strings on my wife's 1980 is hard and takes WAY TOO long :-(

  3. #13
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Gorgeous looking Ric's and good tip about buying a later version.

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  4. #14
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    The factory butchered the neck pickup rout. I'd check that the provided bridge is going to allow you to set up the strings evenly. My 12 string ST has similar bridge pieces and I'm at the point of converting it back to a 6 string and keeping the neck to use on another guitar build with an aftermarket 12 string bridge of a different style.
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  5. #15
    Member cork sniffer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fretworn View Post
    The factory butchered the neck pickup rout. I'd check that the provided bridge is going to allow you to set up the strings evenly. My 12 string ST has similar bridge pieces and I'm at the point of converting it back to a 6 string and keeping the neck to use on another guitar build with an aftermarket 12 string bridge of a different style.
    Thanks for your comment.
    Is this what you are referring to?
    Holes in body lined up with holes in bridge (red X's) leaved strings offset on the neck.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If so it looks like an easy fix. Plug the body holes and move bridge south then re drill.
    Yes??? Hopefully :-) or not :-(

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #16
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cork sniffer View Post
    If you ever get one get a newer one with the slots cut all of the way through the headstock. Changing strings on my wife's 1980 is hard and takes WAY TOO long :-(
    Good to know, at this stage we won't be buying one for a wee while...
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  7. #17
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Yeah that should work - I messed up mine on the first pass, but it was easy enough to plug and re-drill. Annoying for you as its come form the factory like that. Are you going with a scratch plate on this? I'd also check that fit and how the bridge sits in it before re-drilling.
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  8. #18
    Member cork sniffer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Yeah that should work - I messed up mine on the first pass, but it was easy enough to plug and re-drill. Annoying for you as its come form the factory like that. Are you going with a scratch plate on this? I'd also check that fit and how the bridge sits in it before re-drilling.
    I've developed a habit now, over the previous 3 builds to get it PLAYING first. Then surface finish. Then fiddle with it to make it feel and sound just right. The plan is if I can get a neck pickup fitting in a tidy way then no scratch plate. Later today I'll investigate possibilities of a Jazzmaster pickup.

  9. #19
    Member cork sniffer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Yeah that should work - I messed up mine on the first pass, but it was easy enough to plug and re-drill. Annoying for you as its come form the factory like that. Are you going with a scratch plate on this? I'd also check that fit and how the bridge sits in it before re-drilling.
    What do you mean by "how the bridge sits in"?

  10. #20
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I think Sonic means how well the bridge then lines up with the cut-out in a standard Tele scratchplate, as the position of the scratchplate is determined by the neck, which it fits around closely, whilst the bridge should be 2-3mm away from the edge of the bridge cut-out but centrally located within it.

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