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Thread: PRS-1H Build (My First)

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  1. #1
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Toowoomba, Qld.
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    To get pics in your post the best way is to host on imgur.com

    You sign up with an email address - very easy. Imgur is a community so you can actually make your stuff public and interact with people on there - but I use it purely for hosting and keep my profile private.

    Anyway, this is what your library looks like - you can also break it up into albums, but this works for me.



    You can drag and drop directly onto this page from your desktop or a folder on your computer. You can do it with multiple images at the same time. or you can click 'add images' and hunt for them in the traditional way to upload.



    When you click on an image in your library, this box pops up. I usually choose 'large thumbnail' (in the bottom right hand corner) for forums like this. Then click on the 'direct link' code in the boxes on the right hand side. This automatically copies the code to your clipboard.



    Then come back to your Pitbul forum post and paste (Ctrl V) into your comment.

    Then either side of that code you need to type (img) in front of it and (/img) behind it, but use the square brackets --> [.

    (If you reply with quote to this comment, you will see what I mean re the brackets)

    Then it will hotlink back to imgur and appear in your post. This also helps you get around the 5 photo limit on here. You can also post any size pic if you hot link, so you are not limited to the 1500px width or 1mb file size of the forum uploader.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  2. Liked by: christodav

  3. #2
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Oct 2015
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    lol nice FW
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  4. #3
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Oh that's good!

  5. #4
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This a mock build of my kit, The neck fits, but has just a little bit of wiggle room,
    I have started sanding, (Sorry no pictures), and is turning out well I sanded the veneer down to 400, as I did with everything else, I thunk I might stay with the pickups, but I am thinking of replacing the bridge.

  6. #5
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Hmmm...Interesting... looks like you got chrome hardware... mine came with Gold hardware..

    My neck fit gave me only a few mm of movement at the nut of which I needed to use nearly all of it to get the neck straight along the centre line. Be sure to have some temporary 'E' strings on when you set the neck else you may find that one of the E strings will leave the fretboard at the 24th fret. Had I glued my neck In the 'relaxed natural' position of the neck fit I would not have been able to use the high E above the 12th fret as there would not have been any fretboard under the string. When setting my neck and to get the temporary stings to sit correctly all the way down the neck I had to push the nut "up" (towards the low E) as far as it would go and then clamp the neck in that position.

    Also the heel of my neck doesn't traverse the entire neck PU cavity. I inserted an appropriately sized wood filler block into my gap and glued it in which essentially joins the neck heel block and the wood between the PU cavities. I figure in some ways it may improve the strength of the neck join and may possibly affect sustain but mostly it makes sure that when I set the neck the string length is as close to ideal as I can make it. If you have a close look on my build photos (any I build with a set neck) you can see the 'neck end gap' in the neck PU hole that needed filling. I'll include a photo here which shows the 'block' more clearly...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #6
    Does the end of the fretboard have to line up with the start of the neck pickups cavity?

  8. #7
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thyoungscientist View Post
    Does the end of the fretboard have to line up with the start of the neck pickups cavity?
    The simple answer to this is no. It is more important to make sure that the scale length is correct. There are a few posts that cover neck positioning in detail on the site, but essentially the distance from the inside of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret on the high E string should be the same as the distance from the middle of the 12 fret to the bridge on that string.

    (See Gavmeister's post attached for details.. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=1895)
    Last edited by Fretworn; 11-12-2017 at 07:36 AM.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  9. #8
    Also what bridge would you reccomend for this

  10. #9
    Is a Gotoh Wraparound Bridge Good?

  11. #10
    How do you know it is the correct scale length

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