Daves SG Build Whist Waiting for the clear to dry on my LP

[DaveC64]

No But I will if you recommend them.

[pablopepper]

Ubeaut dyes are great. I highly recommend.

[DaveC64]

Finally it has arrived it is 2 distinct planks. I will try to get the lighter plank darker before I Apply any stain on top.

[DaveC64]

I have ordered the U Beaut dyes and the U Beaut Sanding Sealer 500ml.
I should have used that on my LP I did have a few issues with grain rising at the grey primer stage.
I especially like the bit where the sealer will stop the grain ends absorbing lots of dye and going really dark.
Wish My uncle was still alive he was a professional french polisher. The last time I worked with mahogany was when I made a coffee table at school I used wax to polish and finish the wood. It is too long ago to remember the process. I know I had to use assorted veneers on the table top because a mahogany top would have been beyond the school budget.
Any way thanks for the advice guys now the work can soon begin.

The winner is

[wazkelly]

2 distinctly different planks.....maybe go dark on the lighter one and light on the darker one.

[DaveC64]

I have spent a couple of hours sanding by hand whilst waiting for the sealer to arrive. This mahogany is as hard as I remember. Now I have it sanded to a good finish it has some fine what look like very fine band saw lines on the front almost like coarse sand paper grooves. If they do not sand out they could be an issue when I start on the dye. they could leave dark straight diagonal lines. I don't want to have to get the power sander out.

[wazkelly]

I have spent a couple of hours sanding by hand whilst waiting for the sealer to arrive. This mahogany is as hard as I remember. Now I have it sanded to a good finish it has some fine what look like very fine band saw lines on the front almost like coarse sand paper grooves. If they do not sand out they could be an issue when I start on the dye. they could leave dark straight diagonal lines. I don't want to have to get the power sander out.

Sometimes you need to sand in the same direction as the machine marks and once they are gone revert back to sanding in direction of the grain.

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[DaveC64]

Sometimes you need to sand in the same direction as the machine marks and once they are gone revert back to sanding in direction of the grain.

Yep I tried that but the wood is so dam hard it is hard to make in impression hence I have used some sealer in hope that it will help with my next sanding pass.

[wazkelly]

Yep I tried that but the wood is so dam hard it is hard to make in impression hence I have used some sealer in hope that it will help with my next sanding pass.

You may have just trapped those machine marks under a layer of sealer. They will not go away until they have been sanded out. Not sure adding more sealer will disguise things enough to be not noticeable when stain has been applied.
Acknowledge it is a lot of work, particularly with some timber species.

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[Guvna19]

You may have just trapped those machine marks under a layer of sealer. They will not go away until they have been sanded out. Not sure adding more sealer will disguise things enough to be not noticeable when stain has been applied.
Acknowledge it is a lot of work, particularly with some timber species.

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machine marks aside , some stains, ie finger marks, pencil marks, water marks come out easier upon sanding a 'wet' sealer.

remember years of removing the carpenters grubby pencil and dirt which was far easier to eliminate when sanding a 'wet just sealed' timber than to dry sand it prior.
i was was amzed how some machine marks and other oddities including colour varibles where more easily seen wet.
soz for ramble..lol