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Thread: Black Dog P Bass - First build

  1. #11
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
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    I used clear acrylic from that place that must remain nameless over the DT on my Tuff Dog project, works just fine

  2. #12
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hi Vox, should be ok, I'd recommend you get some scrap wood, apply some DT on that and do a test spray with the lacquer to make sure there is no reaction
    Thats a very good suggestion.

    Im not sure I understood what VM is getting at, are you saying you want to stain it with DT, then put a lacquer coat over the DT then apply the decal?
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  3. #13
    Member VoxMechanica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    Thats a very good suggestion.

    Im not sure I understood what VM is getting at, are you saying you want to stain it with DT, then put a lacquer coat over the DT then apply the decal?
    Correct Andy. The decal instructions (Rothko & Frost) say it will not work on bare wood and a lacquer substrate is needed. So, Plan 'B' is to D/T the whole thing, clear lacquer over that and then apply the decal - with a top coat of lacquer, just as per the instructions.

  4. #14
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    sounds good Vox. Definitely worth a sealer coat or 2 over the decal at the end. Dave King thinks there should be no issues with clear acrylic and DT
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  5. #15
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'd just give the DT quite a while to dry out first so that any oils in it have evaporated.

  6. #16
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Simon's right at least a week (maybe a bit more) for the DT to cure, then spray the base coasts apply the decal, then top coats over the decal before wet sand polishing.
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  7. #17
    Member VoxMechanica's Avatar
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    Thanks dave.king1! Is there an emoticon for a self inflicted smack on the head?
    Last edited by VoxMechanica; 30-08-2017 at 06:16 PM.

  8. #18
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    Unhappy Oh No! Now He Tells Me!

    Quote Originally Posted by dingobass View Post
    Hey Mark,

    The Bloodwood is really close to the vintage amber found on the old classics, Acacia is close to the bog standard yellow.
    The project is PB4-A (ash body) finished in Nullarbor Ochre with Acacia neck. I am attempting to emulate a '50s Precision Bass. I had assumed that Bloodwood would be a red finish, so went for Acacia. One stain coat has given me a very yellow colour Is there any way to get to the vintage amber, or would Bloodwood still do the trick?

  9. #19
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Vox, so you want to go from yellow to amber ? What DT stains have you got nullarbor ochore and acacia, I would try mixing some NB into the acacia and do a small test on some scrap wood and adjust the mix till you get a suitable amber colour.
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  10. Liked by: VoxMechanica

  11. #20
    Member VoxMechanica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hey Vox, so you want to go from yellow to amber ? What DT stains have you got nullarbor ochore and acacia, I would try mixing some NB into the acacia and do a small test on some scrap wood and adjust the mix till you get a suitable amber colour.
    Thanks Wokka!. Just gave it a try, probably 40/60 Ochre/Acacia. Sanded off a fair bit of the Acacia, but the wood had a distinctly yellow effect however, I'm getting closer to the amber that I would have preferred.

    Must send a note to Adam suggesting pics of the DT neck finishes, instead of the bottles. Would make life easier for us artistically challenged peeps!

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