First build - TL1 Ian Rodness

[stan]

enjoy the build - and we need pics!

[ianrodness]

okay...pics of the bench.... and Tele
Keep in mind, I'm no carpenter. This is a pretty simple bench. I do plan on installing a vice somehow to hold the neck and body while I work. The drawers were re-purposed from an old kitchen cabinet, and I already had the peg board. I've installed 2 new outlets on either side of the bench, and the work light above.
So my question is, how do I know when I've finished sanding? I do have a small amount of experience with wood, and the surface feels uniform, and quite smooth to the touch. I've given a couple of passes with an orbital sander with 120 grit, 3 passes with 220, and hand sanded with 400. Then went back to 220 because the edges of the top and back felt a bit rougher than the rest. Tonight, I'll give it another pass of 220 with the orbital, and then hand sand with the 400 again.
Any advice would be really helpful, and I'm pretty stoked to continue.
Thanks guys!!

[FrankenWashie]

Ah Sanding.

If you are already at 220, i'd hold fire and wipe down with some Gum turpentine as this will highlight any wonky bits (Spindle sander marks, glue globs etc).
I tend to sand manually (masochistic tendencies) using a length of timber that is flat, as wide or slightly wider than the body, with self stick paper adhered to it. For flat faced bodies like TL, ST, and SV style guitars even though it can feel uniform and flat, you might find once colour or finish goes on, it ain't as flat as you first thought. Better to iron that out before filling or colour goes on.
once you gone over the whole body and you are satisfied that all your glue marks, sanding scrapes and other greeblies are sorted, move up the grades stopping once you've reached the finish level appropriate to what you're going to do e.g.:
- Stains, stop at 220 or 240 grit else you may have issues getting good colour penetration.
- Paint, after filling stop at about 600 grit and start your primer/undercoating.

Please note, that this is just what I do, based on having read through a lot of other threads, and having taken advice from others who have executed some fantastic finishes. (i'm looking at you @Phrozin, @WazKelly, @WOkkaboy, @Dedman, @ZeroMick, @Andy40, @FredA & Others). I encourage you to pull up and read through as many threads as you can, as there is a plethora of advice out there in the builds, tips, techniques and tricks that folk won't remember but can really help.

Hope this has assisted. Cheers,

EDIT: Oh and that is a fantastic workspace. Nice Job!

[FrankenWashie]

Haha, a man has the ability to adapt no matter the danger... i.e. kitchen table as a work bench! I rest my case...

HA! If i started a kit on our kitchen bench, the Bride of FrankenWashie would impale me on the kit neck..

[ianrodness]

fantastic advice. Thanks for the offering. I'll start reading now. Does gum turpentine = mineral spirits?

[wokkaboy]

Hi Ian, nice workbench setup looks great. Gum turpentine is different to mineral or methylated spirits. Gum turps is much safer to use than standard mineral turps. Grab a bottle from most hardwares, photo below.
With sanding as Franky said depends if you plan to stain or paint the body ? I find orbital sanders leave marks on the body so I use an orbital sander to 240 grit and hand sand with 240 and 320 grit with a sanding block.
As Franky says everyone has a different method that works for them. You have the right idea, run your fingers over the body after a wipe of gum turps and you should feel any areas that need more sanding. Ususally the end grain on the bottom of the body and cutways top of the body need the most amount of sanding to remove the machine marks. Always sand with the grain. Going from 220 grit to 400 grit is too bigger jump. You should be using closer grits when sanding to finer grades. Best of luck !

[FrankenWashie]

As Wokka has shown, that is the stuff. It pongs a bit, but it is not as pervasive an chemical type smell as mineral turpentine. Usual precautions though, well ventilated area, no ignition sources, use disposable nitrile gloves and wear a half mask respirator (Particularly if you have breathing or respiratory issues or are susceptible to such).

ON another safety note, while the Basswood is not so bad, i would also still wear a P2 dust mask while sanding it, especially with mechanical sanders. The Big Green shed does 10 packs at a good price. I tend now to wear a dust mask even when sawing these days.

[wokkaboy]

good advice Franky. I like the smell of gum turps. It's not as good as the smell of Dingotone though haha

[ianrodness]

This is great advice - thanks for the heads up!! I'll be sure to post my progress.

[FrankenWashie]

This is great advice - thanks for the heads up!! I'll be sure to post my progress.

I should clarify as you are in Ontario, "The Big Green shed" is Bunnings, an Australian Big Box hardware chain. Your equivalent is probably Home Hardware or Lowes I think.
Post updates and questions and one or more of the Forumites will post some helpful advice. It's a fantastic little community here; everyone wants to see people pull off a speccy build or realise their dream guitar and they are all more than happy to help out. I think we've a fair few members in your neck of the woods these days as well.