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Thread: What's the actual difference between the cheapest Bass strings and the dearest?

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  1. #1
    After trying so many strings, I'm convinced that the more you pay, the higher the quality control. Each brand has its own feel, which is what's most important overall.

    Sure, the difference between stainless steel, nickel, and flatwound, is mildly audible when performing, but nobody can tell if you use Thomastik or D'Addario strings in the middle of a show. It's all about what feel helps you perform your best.

    That said, I prefer Fender bass strings for rounds, and Ernie Ball Group flatwounds. So my opinion may be invalid haha.

  2. #2
    Mentor Chuck's Avatar
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    I take the James Jamerson approach: install strings, never change them! On that basis I've always bought good strings knowing I'm expecting them to last a long time. I guess it helps that I generally play flats and like a mellow rather than bright sound anyway.
    Completed Builds: #1 TL-1 "Telemaster" (GOTM Oct 2016); #2 The "Maplecaster" scratch build; #3 JB-4 "Bass IV" (co-winner GOTM Jan 2017); #4 ST-1M "Surfcaster" (GOTM Apr 2017), #5 JZA-1 "EC Deluxe"

    In Progress:
    Build #6 N1R "Semi-scratch" build
    Build #7 JZA-1 Baritone

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  3. #3
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    Expect to pay anywhere between $30-$50 for a decent set. Anything below that is ok but won't last long. Ernie Ball sets are a safe bet- never had a dud set yet, unlike others I can name... (*cough Rotosounds cough*)
    "Music is in the air; it's my job to pull it out."- Jaco Pastorius

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
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    EBs or D'Addario heavy rounds on the 4 stringers now and only ever used Fender strings on the VI and the old L Series PBass back when I had them in the late 60s & early 70s

    Tried the black nylon wound Fender flats but couldn't ever get to like them

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