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Thread: JM-1 First ever build by Ado

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  1. #1
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Yes. Certainly sand those areas down and fill again. I'd avoid making the mix too wet as being water based, it could shrink a bit. Don't try and do too much at once. Several thin layers rather than one thick layer.

    Before changing the primer colour, why not try spraying some scrap wood with the primer and the daphne blue topcoat? If it comes out the colour you want it, then leave it as is. Most Fender colours were simply sprayed over initial heavily thinned clearcoats, sometimes over undercoats (there was very little consistency over the years), some over stained bodies, but in the pre CBS-days (and probably for a while after), finishes often got sprayed on top of other finishes - even sunbursts, sometimes to quickly turn around a custom colour order, sometimes because the original finish was flawed. The prime colour is the topcoat, underlying colours (unless very dark) will have a very small effect on the final colour. There is no one defining 'daphne blue', as the paints often came from different manufacturers and even DuPont's shade varied slightly depending if it was nitro or acrylic paint. Some finishes have faded a bit, so they are more like a sonic blue, whilst others have not (depending on both the paint type and the clearcoat used) and are significantly darker than what would be called daphne blue today.

  2. #2
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    Long time no update but here is where I have got so far....

    Took all the awesome advice from the fantastic Gentlemen of the forums:

    Sanded down just the area, filled with more timbermate, let dry and sanded it back for a nice smooth finish.

    Painted with more primer (yes the awful orange stuff).

    Let dry for ages and ages (Weather in Tasmania was not exactly conducive to 1. working outside or 2. spraying)

    Eventually got to put on the Daphne Blue. I used 2 fairly light coats but got good coverage with no runs and I was actually pretty chuffed with myself at this stage as it looked awesome...........

    Unfortunately I was so chuffed I did not take a pic at this stage

    Waited again for ages and ages (3 weeks) and got to start putting on the Clear coat. As I am going to go for a gloss I plan to put at least 4-5 coats so I can polish back.

    Was going pretty good too until I noticed this....
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yep some runs.

    So I've got a question.......... As this is the first clear coat (I'm using Mohawk Clear Gloss) do I
    A) Just put the rest of the coats on top and worry about sanding / polishing later or
    B) sand now between coats to get rid of the run

    Cheers in advance guys!
    JM-1 * first build started Dec 2016 *

  3. #3
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Ado, it would be best to wet sand the clear run now. Don't worry too much if you sand through the clear layer, just be careful not to go through the colour coat. The flatter the finish is before the next coat the less sanding later on. Make sure you give the clear coat a few good days to cure first.
    Nice colour by the way
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  4. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You may find it easier to use a razor-blade scraper to scrape most of the run off to avoid over-sanding (though the method is better on a flat surface than a curved one). Refer to Frank Ford's 'razor blade trick' in this StewMac video.


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