Looking at your measurements, it looks like you are measuring to the fret board marker, this is not the correct place to measure to.
Make sure you are taking your measurements from the top of the metal fret, or what is classed as the crown of the fret as mentioned above.
Acoustics:
1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup
2015 Ibanez AEL108MD-NT - Laminated Spruce top, Laminated Mahogany B&S, Fishman Sonicore Pickup
Electrics:
Pitbull LP-1S - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5745
Carsen Superstrat Rebuild - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6284
Builds in Progress:
Silent Guitar Semi-Scratch Build - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6809
cheers Simon for correcting me, I always get my 24.75" and 25.5" scales mixed up when converting them !
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
I always have to use an online converter, just to be sure myself!
Personally I always check these kinds of measurements with the stewmac fret position calculator. It will give you the exact distance from nut to the middle of each TOM bridge post to the nearest 10th of a mm given the scale length.
https://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html
Just sayin.
cheers,
Gav.
--
Build #01: BC-1
Build #02: ST-1
Build #03: JR-1DC
Build #04: ES-2V
Build #05: ESB-4 (GOTM July 2014)
Build #06: RC-1
Build #07: MK-2
Build #08: TLA-1
Build #09: JR-1DC
Build #0A: LPA-1
Build #0B: STA-1 (GOTM April 2015)
Build #0C: MKA-2
Build #0D: LP-1M
Build #0E: JB-1
Build #0F: FS-1
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That gives a value of 629.539mm (± 0.5mm) from the fretboard edge of the nut to the centre of the treble-side post.
It also says that the bass-side post should be 1.5mm - 3mm further from the nut.
That's a line that's drawn perpendicular to the nut (you'll have to extend the nut line out a bit), and not from the corner of the nut to the bridge post position.
Ah - I see what I was doing wrong. Appreciate all the help!
I think I got it this time
Saddle to 12th bass:318
Saddle to 12th treble: 315 (just under)
Nut to 12th bass:312.5
Nut to 12th treble: 312.5
That looks much better!!
I personally don't think you have any issue there, but one of the other guys will confirm. I'm just a newbie also!
Acoustics:
1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup
2015 Ibanez AEL108MD-NT - Laminated Spruce top, Laminated Mahogany B&S, Fishman Sonicore Pickup
Electrics:
Pitbull LP-1S - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5745
Carsen Superstrat Rebuild - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6284
Builds in Progress:
Silent Guitar Semi-Scratch Build - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6809
OK.....completed sanding and applying finish...
Then completed wiring and installing electronics....
Getting ready to install machine heads, the bridge / trapeze tailpiece, then the neck and fastening pick-ups.
I instructional video for glue on neck isn't active. I watched the one for bolt-ons. Are there any tricks for setting a glue-on neck? The rough fit appears to be good, so I was going to apply glue to the neck and body and then clamp it down with protection for the guitar.
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