Attention Weirdy and other electronic gurus!!

[Zandit75]

One other question, will I need to shield the cavities for this style of guitar?

[WeirdBits]

Shielding the cavities is always a wise move, slug/barrier tape works fine if that's all you have access to.

The 'bridge on' setting would basically just link the bridge pup to the volume separate from the lever switch setting, so it adds the bridge pup to whatever you have selected. In positions 1 & 2 it has no effect as the bridge is already on, position 3 it would add the bridge to the middle (same as what position 2 already is), position 4 it would add the bridge to the middle + neck and position 5 would add the bridge to the neck. So, it gives you an 'everything on' option for position 4 and a 'bridge + neck' option for position 5, which is sometimes called a 7-way mod for a strat.

The other option for the mini-toggle is to wire it so the hot stack works as: full stack (series, default)/split stack/full stack (parallel). You would no longer have the 'bridge on' option, but instead get a parallel setting on the hot stack which should give a clearer, slightly brighter and thinner but lower output sound. It all depends on what you want or would like to try, as the actual wiring is pretty easy either way.

[wazkelly]

Some people swear by using copper shielding tape all the time, particularly when using single coil PUP's. Highly recommend doing it inside the control cavity as that can be more of a problem for humming & buzzing than the PUP's themselves as was the case on my Tele.

This stuff is pretty cheap, does the trick and easily found in Big Green sheds or local hardware and gardening stores.

[WeirdBits]

hehe snap.

[wazkelly]

hehe snap.

I was just going at a snail's pace compared to you.

[Zandit75]

Sorry Weirdy, I realised I must have left you hanging last night.
If you can do the second option for the hot stack it would be most appreciated.
Thanks again for your assistance, you, along with Waz, have been awesome!

[stan]

Some people swear by using copper shielding tape all the time, particularly when using single coil PUP's. Highly recommend doing it inside the control cavity as that can be more of a problem for humming & buzzing than the PUP's themselves as was the case on my Tele.

This stuff is pretty cheap, does the trick and easily found in Big Green sheds or local hardware and gardening stores.

heaps cheaper than the official stuff too - the only disadvantage is that the glue is not conductive. Aluminium tape can be bought from Jaycar pretty cheaply, and a decent alternative.
I'm about to give shielding paint a try - I just can't get those super awesome looking cavities like the guys who do the copper tape so nicely

[Zandit75]

Thanks guys again, most appreciated. I've got a pack of shielding from DB when I got my LP kit, will that do a couple of guitars, or is it only enough for one?
Also, do I need to shield the trem cavity as well?

[WeirdBits]

According to the blurb "...We’ve also packaged the tape in a kit that is guaranteed to contain enough tape to do any one of our guitars or basses.". Judicious use may stretch it, but I doubt you will get an LP and fully shield a strat type from one pack.

No need to shield the trem cavity, you just need do the control cavity and pup routs and the back of the pickguard over those areas so that they're enclosed on all sides... and make sure each area of shielding has a path to ground.

I'll draw up a diagram with the series/split/parallel mini-toggle option as soon as I get time.

[wokkaboy]

that's it Weirdy, you would need 2 packs of copper shielding at least to do a ST, or a double neck SG !!
I think 1 pack you could stretch to do a LP kit